Lunch with a wine “Superstar”-Pio Boffa of Pio Cesare of Piedmont, Italy

by Dwight Casimere

Italian winemaker Pio Boffa, fourth generation winemaker of the legendary Pio Cesare winery of Piedmont, Italy is almost breathless as he describes the new releases over an elegant authentic Italian gourmet lunch at South Beach Miami’s Quattro restaurant on luxurious Lincoln Road.

“This wine is a Rock Star,” he declared emphatically, lifting a glass of his signature Nebbiolo Langhe 2006 ($32). This rich, full bodied wine with its intense red fruit component and aromatic presence of late toast and the mellow richness of light toast derived from its aging for 30 months in French oak, melded perfectly with the classic dish of Osso Bucco, so expertly prepared by Chefs Fahrizio and Nicola.

“The warm tannins almost create a richness in the mouth that gets you ready for the rich taste of the meat and the sauce, which is made with the wine we are drinking.” Pio Boffa’s words arrived in cascades as the expert wait staff buzzed amongst the select group of invited guests and wine journalists who were assembled from around the world during the recent Food Network South Beach Wine & Food Experience. “We differ from so many other wineries in the region in that we own and control all of our vineyards, so we maintain the quality from the soil to the bottling.”

Pio Boffa’s words are an understatement. The family has been producing wines under the flagship name Pio Cesare since 1881 when his great grandfather first planted vineyards in the legendary rustic hills of Piemonte. Under his leadership, the winery has moved into the area of technological advancement that incorporates the latest modern innovations coupled with sustainable growth practices in the vineyards. “My father is a man of few words,” Pio Boffa said, his tone lowering with gravitas. “In fact, my father was not one to give compliments lightly. But he told me when tasting this wine, ‘Now you are making the wine, using all this technology, that I have been making without for the past 43 years!’ “That is as close to a compliment as he has ever given me,” Boffa said with rye humor.

The sun-splashed afternoon began with an appropriately spring-like wine selection,
Pio Cesare’s buttery l’Altro Chardonnay ($16.60) served with an assortment of Anti-pasti. This is one of the most beautiful examples of Italian Chardonnay I have ever tasted with its light notes of lemon and a discreet influence of oak on the nose. It has a clean, almost honey-like flavor that makes it the perfect summertime wine with salads, yet it has an herbal quality that makes it a perfect match for lamb or veal. There’s good acidity and a touch of fatness in the mouth feel that makes it a perfect match for seafood, particularly salmon, with its rich Omega 3 fatty tissue and a certain soul mate for shellfish, be they clams, mussels, stone crab, lobsters or grilled calamari. (They adventurous might opt for grilled baby octopus. They’re available in many supermarkets these days and quite inexpensive. With all of the problems with seafood supplies due to the Icelandic volcano and recent Gulf oil spill, these more inexpensive, exotic ‘seafoods’ such as calamari (squid) or octopus (they need to invent another, more consumer friendly name for this one) might be a budget conscious alternative to the soaring prices of more traditional sea fare).

Look for Pio Cesare wines in the Italian section of your local wine merchant. They’re quite affordable and absolutely delicious and food-friendly! Dwight The Wine Doctor recommends them highly! For more information, visit www.piocesare.it.

Passport to Sonoma an invitation to wine paradise

by Dwight Casimere

There is no more supremely sublime experience than driving through the Sonoma Valley on a sun-drenched afternoon. The vineyards and arbors of gnarled tree branches seem to envelop you as you see the names of the hallowed wine estates roll past; Kunde Estate, Adler Fels, Kenwood, Chateau St. Jean, Landmark. The facades are as varied as the wines served in the tasting rooms, from regal French chateaus to rustic country cottages that harken back to the region’s origins as the nation’s oldest winemaking region, dating back to 1824, when Franciscan monks planted the first gnarled vines in Sonoma’s rich, volcanic soil. Along every mile, signposts, old vines and whispering hills emit echoes of its storied past.

Wine lovers have a unique opportunity to take a behind the scenes look and experience first hand all of the glories that the Sonoma Valley has to offer. Passport to Sonoma Valley, May 15 & 16 lays the vast panorama of this extraordinary region at their feet. For two glorious days, 50 wineries open their tasting rooms and cellars to present over 300 wines paired with a mouth-watering array of culinary delicacies along the Sonoma Valley’s lush 18-mile stretch. Each “passport” entitles the holder to an experience reserved for only the most discriminating connoisseur. A commemorative glass is the ‘open sesame’ key to unlimited tastings, special discounts on wine purchases and exclusive entrée to the valley’s hidden treasures.

I have experienced the unparalleled pleasures of experiencing Sonoma Valley ‘behind the scenes’ at the annual Wine Country Weekend held each fall in the midst of the Harvest crush. A succession of wine tastings in the private tasting rooms, dinners in the wine cellar and the vineyard and moonlit excursions to the vineyards during the exciting night harvest made for a once in a lifetime experience.

Among the participating wineries in the Passport Weekend, there are some exceptional wines to be had. The Wine Doctor has been fortunate to preview some of the selections that will be offered.

Arrowood Wines is a stellar example of the rich heritage of Sonoma Valley because of the exceptional wines created by Winemaster and Owner Richard Arrowood.

His resume speaks volumes. Prior to founding his own winery, he was chosen by the founders of Chateau St. Jean Winery to become their first Winemaster and eventual Executive Vice President. The awards and accolades are too numerous to recount here but suffice to say Arrowood was the architect of Chateau St. Jean’s stellar worldwide reputation.

After 16 years with Chateau St. Jean, Arrowood decided to move on and devote himself to creating reserve quality Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. His creative drive also led him branch out into less familiar varietals to California such as Viognier, Malbec and Pinot Blanc. The results of his creative extrapolations are phenomenal.

I have waxed eloquently about the superlative palate-pleasing qualities of his award-winning 2005 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon, a steal at $50. Grapes for this essentially Bordeaux blend of 94% Cabernet, 3% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot are culled from organic and sustainably-farmed vineyards along the benches, hillsides and mountains set in the dewy morning shadow of the Mayacamas Mountains. The resultant wine has all of the harmonic insight of a virtuoso. Elegant notes of coffee, rich dark chocolate and hints of tobacco belie its husbanding for 24 months in French and American oak. Total production of this extraordinary wine was only slightly over 7 thousand cases, making this one of the most prized wines to be discovered during the Passport excursion.

The same family has operated Kunde Family Estate for five generations. Located in the heart of Sonoma’s picturesque Valley of the Moon, the centerpiece is the Kunde Estate Tasting Room, constructed as a replica of the Kinneybrook Ranch cattle barn, which stood on the land for more than a century. Another focal point on the vast estate are the stone ruins of the Dunfillan Winery, set in a secluded five-acre meadow surrounded by vineyards and mountain views. Built by winemaking pioneer John Drummond in the late 1800’s, Dunfillan Winery is the site where California’s first varietally labeled Cabernet Sauvignon was vinified and bottled.

The Estates three elevation levels and seven distinct microclimates along with a mix of soil depths and types make for uniquely complex and sophisticated wines. A unique flavor portrait is created for each of the wines by this diverse pallet. Kennybrook Chardonnay, Shaw Century Vines Zinfandel, C.S. Ridge Chardonnay, Wildwood Chardonnay, Drummond Cabernet and Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc are just a few of the distinctively crafted wines created by the winemaking team. The winery also produces specific vineyard block designated wines exclusively for Kunde Family Estate Wine Club members. If you mention that Dwight The Wine Doctor recommended a sip, you just might have an opportunity to taste one of these limited edition wines. That alone should be an enticement to join the Passport Weekend experience.

Weekend Passports and daily tickets and Designated Driver ticket information is available at SonomaValleyWine.com.

Celebrity Chefs 'living landmarks' of New Orleans Wine & Food Experience

Story and photos by Dwight Casimere

-Chef John Besh

-Chef Susan Spicer

-Chef Jeff McInnis

-French Quarter 'Line' parade

Celebrity Chefs are the living monuments to New Orleans’ storied reputation as the nation’s repository of outstanding cuisine. The French Quarter is a living, breathing national landmark that literally pulsates with the sights, sounds and smells of America’s most vibrant culinary scene.

Walk down any of its cobble stoned streets and the aromas literally grab you by the throat and pull you in. There truly is not a bad meal to be had, but some chefs and their cooking expertise outshine others and have put New Orleans on the map as the nation’s number one destination for gourmands.

New Orleans Wine & Food Experience 2010, May 25-29 is therefore, one of the most anticipated events of the year’s culinary calendar. Joyce Godbold is Executive Director.

“Its critical for us that we have the participation of these great chefs. What makes our event so special is the caliber of the food. The chefs really are the primary reason that we are here. They make it all happen,” Godbold told The Wine Doctor by telephone from her office at NOWFE headquarters.

“Without their ongoing support and love for the city, none of this would be happening. I mean, you can take a few chefs and a few winemakers and put them anywhere, because they do wine and food festivals in just about every major city in the country. But none of them are like New Orleans. The chefs here are like living landmarks who work hard every day to make this city great.”

Katrina proved it more than anything. “John Besh, who is probably the best known of all of our chefs participating this year (Food Network, James Beard Award-winner. Restaurants August, Besh Steak, Luke, La Provence). “He was the one who was feeding people right after Katrina. That’s the kind of dedication and love for the city he’s shown year after year and that’s what comes through in his cooking is a genuine love for food and a love for the people of New Orleans.

“Susan Spicer (Bayona, Wild Flour Breads) is another one. She’s what I’d call a ‘quiet leader.’ She’s the total opposite of John. As a person, she tends to shy away from the spotlight, but the quality of her food speaks for her as well as her dedication. She really makes you proud to be a ‘girl’ in New Orleans. She’s really someone who women can look up to as both an example and as a businesswoman. This is our chance to honor her and push her into the spotlight which she so richly deserves.”

Festival participants will get a chance to learn secrets of one of the Master Chefs of New Orleans in a seminar on charcuterie, or cured, smoked and prepared meats.

“Chef Donald Link (Cochon, Herbsaint, Cochon Butcher sandwich shop and Calcasieu) is recognized as the national expert on house made charcuterie (salamis, pastramis, hams, mortadella) and Cajun specialties like boudin, tasso and andouille sausages. He uses family recipes that have been handed down over generations. He’s a living showcase of down-home Louisiana cooking and he’s willing to share his knowledge at this event.”

New Orleans and its French Quarter have also become the adopted home of many other culinary greats who come time and time again to the annual wine and food extravaganza. “ Bravo Network’s Top Chef Season 5 Winner Hosea Rosenberg (Jax Fish House, Boulder, Colorado) and Season 5 Contestant Jeff McGinnis (DeLido Beach Club, South Beach, Miami) of Florida have been adopted by New Orleans because they come here regularly to participate in events and lend their time and talents to NOWFE.”

Godbold says the 2010 New Orleans Wine & Food Experience is a standout among all events of its kind. “There’s not another place in this country where you’ll find 75 chefs of this caliber all in one place at one time. When you pair that with great wines from all over America and around the world, it’s an unbeatable event. You won’t find this combination anywhere else.”

NOWFE takes places May 25-29. For tickets and schedule information, visit www.nowfe.com.

New Orleans Wine and Food Experience showcases America’s culinary capital

Story and Photos by Dwight Casimere

-Dwight The Wine Doctor and Bravo Network’s Top Chef Season 5 winner Hosea Rosenberg

-A Heritage pig or ‘Cochon’ as they say in New Orleans

-Mardi Gras celebrant at the Grand Tasting at the Louisiana Superdome

-Chef Emeril and Dwight The Wine Doctor

-Celebrity Chefs compete at the Louisiana Seafood Cookoff at the Superdome

Without question, America’s culinary capital is the City of New Orleans. That fact will be demonstrated with resounding clarity when The New Orleans Wine & Food Experience 2010 convenes in the Crescent City Tuesday, May 25 to Saturday, May 29.

More than a hundred New Orleans restaurants will serve samples of their delectable cuisine along with 15,000 glasses of wine poured by 200 winemakers will be served over the course of the five-day extravaganza.

Beginning with a series of wine dinners at New Orleans’ premiere restaurants, the event celebrates the pairing of the nation’s and the world’s finest wines with the imaginative cuisine of some of the nation’s most celebrated chefs.

Vinola! Tasting and Auction is one of NOWFE’s premiere events. It’s a rare opportunity for a ‘limited edition’ of 200 wine enthusiasts to mingle with elite winemakers and sample highly rated and collectible wines from around the world. Forty wineries will pour their most highly rated and revered wines followed by a live auction. This is a must event for wine aficionados and serious wine collectors!

Unique among all wine tasting events and a true centerpiece of NOWFE is the Royal Street Stroll. Its the biggest block party ever for foodies and wine lovers. They are surrounded by the sights and sounds of the biggest street party since Mardi Gras. For one night only, the French Quarter is turned into the world's biggest wine tasting! Wine glasses in hand, epicures stroll through the heart of the city’s historic French Quarter sampling wine and food offerings will meandering through the section’s unique antique shops, art galleries and boutiques. Live jazz from the city’s storied musical geniuses emanates from the quaint muses and cobble-stoned streets of one of the nation’s most fabled districts.

Louisiana Superdome is the setting for the ‘Super Bowl’ of all wine tasting events, the Grand Tastings Friday, May 28 and Saturday, May 29. 75 chefs and 1000 vintages are accompanied by some of Louisiana’s best musicians. The event is replete with local flavor and color, complete with Mardi Gras floats, ‘line’ parades and chef demonstrations and competitions. There’s nothing quite like it in the entire culinary world.

The 2010 seminar series brings celebrated local chefs and the world’s top winemakers to a series of intimate discussions in the private dining and meeting rooms of the French Quarter’s most esteemed luxury hotels. This is an opportunity to learn the hottest trends and cutting edge techniques from the experts of the culinary world. Topics include “Magazine, the Street of Dreams,” “Charmed by Charcuterie,” “Gone Gulfing” and “Wines with Altitude.” There is nothing stuffy about these informative and fun sessions.

The New Orleans Wine & Food Experience is a non-profit organization. The Board of the New Orleans Wine & Food Experience donates 100% of the events’ profit to support their programs and foundations. Proceeds from the 2009 event benefited University of New Orleans School of Hotel, Restaurant & Tourism, the Louisiana Restaurant Association’s ProStart Program, The Chef John Folse Culinary Institute, Delgado Community College Culinary Arts Program, New Orleans Center for the Creative Arts, Girls First, Cancer Crusaders, Animal Rescue of New Orleans, Coach Sean Payton’s Play It Forward Foundation and Fore! Kids Foundation. For information visit www.nowfe.com or call (504) 529.WINE (9463).

Next: The Great Chefs of New Orleans take center stage.

America's best wines in gala Florida showcase

Story and photos by Dwight Casimere

A lush, tropical early spring night in West Palm Beach, Florida in a Mediterranean garden provided the backdrop for one of the most prestigious events to celebrate the nation’s finest wines. The Gala Dinner of the American Fine Wine Competition was held at the Lincoln Culinary Institute (formerly the Florida Culinary Institute) in West Palm Beach. This wine fantasy presented nearly 500 award winning American wines paired with an amazing menu prepared by South Florida’s most revered chefs.

“This is strictly a celebration of American wine” Patrick Sullivan, Wine & Spirits Editor for Dine Magazine told me over a glass of Ferrante Pinot Grigio,Grand River Valley ($14.99) of Geneva, Ohio, about an hour outside of Cleveland, the Best of Show winner at the night’s festivities. As a member of the distinguished panel of unbiased judges for the 2010 American Fine Wine Competition, Sullivan had a unique vantage point from which to view the evening’s celebrants. “The wines honored here tonight are unique in the world for the quality and sophistication. Every wine we have here flies in the face of some of the biases that exist out in the marketplace that the United States can’t produce wines of equal quality and versatility as those in France or Italy. There are wines here tonight that could go toe to toe with any European wine and win hands down!”

Winemaker Nicholas Ferrante of Ferrante Winery & Ristorante, was practically giddy with delight over his wine’s singular honor. “There aren’t a lot of people who believe that a fine wine can come out of Ohio, but when you look at the reality of terrain and climate, there’s not too much different between our part of the world and the Loire Valley in France. This is a landmark night for the American wine industry. Everyone here, including myself, will walk out of here with our heads held high, knowing that we are not only the best in the country, but standard-bearers for the entire American wine industry.”

Presented by Patrick Risk Management, the winners of the invitation only wine competition had their offerings poured by 40 local “wine angels,” including event organizer and chairperson Shari Gherman. As she poured me at glass Rombauer 2006 Zinfandel ($24), she gushed, “This evening is all about passion. You can feel it in the air and taste it in the wine and the food.”

After a wine-tasting ‘cocktail’ hour that included hors d’oeuvres such as BBQ spiked, skillet seared shrimp with mango cocktail sauce and Leg of Duck Confit ‘Cakes,’ the evening included dinner prepared by award-winning chefs, including Johnny Vinczencz o Johnny V’s in Las Olas and Cindy Hutson of Ortanique on The Mile in Miami.

An appetizer of pan seared Alaskan Diver Scallop with fennel, potato and duck confit, segued seamlessly into an entrée of Short Rib of Beef with Lobster and Wild Mushroom Break Pudding, expertly served by the culinary students at Lincoln Culinary Institute.

The selections of wines served at the dinner were worthy of any you’d find in the cellars of the most discriminating collectors. To have them served all under one tented “roof” was like having Ambrosia amongst the gods. DeLoach 2007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($21.99) was the first of many outstanding offerings I accepted from the ‘wine angels.’ It’s hard to believe that a pinot noir, especially one so well structured, is available at this price. This is a wine that will age beautifully in the cellar, but why wait; it’s so perfect now! With the short rib and mouth-watering side dish of the lobster bread pudding, this southern take on ‘surf ‘n turf’ was enough to make culinary necks ‘snap’.

Likewise the Arrowood 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve Speciale, also from the Sonoma Valley ($110) was a rare opportunity to taste one of the truly great California wines that will be talked about for many years as a benchmark. The wine is only available in limited quantities. (There’s a six-bottle purchase limit). You’ll most likely only encounter it at the most discriminating wine shops or on wine lists at the nation’s most prestigious restaurant venues such as the Ritz Carlton or The Palm or Morton’s Steakhouse. If you see it retail, snatch it up because you’ll probably fork over a hefty tariff at a restaurant.

Joseph Phelps is another California winemaker who never disappoints in the red wine category. His Insignia red blend ($149) remains one of the benchmark American Bordeaux styled blends with its concentrated aromatics of lush black fruit and back notes of coffee and rich cola syrup. This is the wine to have with an exquisitely aged prime steak. If you’re a real wine connoisseur, you won’t want anything with this wine but a proper Riedel glass and perhaps a good Dominican Maduro cigar or a crackling fire and some Mozart or Miles for atmosphere!

There were a number of serious wines poured in the $100 plus range that made this a signature evening for wine lovers. There were also a number of wines in the $20-$45 range that also stood out as America’s best. That’s the beauty of American wines. There are still some terrific buys out there. All you need is an adventurous palette and an opportunity for exposure such as the one provided at the American Fine Wine Competition Gala Dinner. Bon appetit!

Stand aside Argentine, the 'real' Malbec is in town!

by Dwight Casimere

Move over Argentina, the “real” Malbec is coming to a wine retailer near you direct from its historic home in the south of France.

Wine producers from the Cahors region of southwestern France, where the Malbec grape variety originated more than 800 years ago descended on the Holiday Inn, Coral Gables, Florida, near Miami, to hold a day-long immersion in the lush, fruity wines from their region. Many of the wines have yet to obtain distribution in the United States, but there are a few labels that can be found on local store shelves and at $10-$15 dollars a bottle, they represent a real value when tabulating the taste to price quotient.

One wine that is available at online wine stores and some specialty wine retailers is Chateau de Cayx, a small production historic estate owned by His Royal Highness Prince Consort Henrik of Denmark. Guillaume Bardin is Director of the prestigious Chateau, which is located on the site of the Quercy Ancient Fortress that dates from the 18^th Century.

“I started working with Prince Henrik a long time ago for one big reason, I, like the Prince, am very passionate about wine. The second reason is that three years ago, the Prince asked me to take charge completely of the sale and marketing of the wine in the United States and around the world.

“The Prince bought the Chateau in 1975 and built the winery in ’93. Since 2007 we have been selling the wine directly from the Chateau. Before that, we sold through a negotiant. The wine used to only be available to people who came to the Chateau for a visit, now, we are selling directly to retailers.”

Prince Henrik is somewhat of a celebrity in France, on the order of a minor-league Wolfgang Puck, with TV shows, magazines, videos and cookbooks that he hopes will catch on in the United States and elsewhere. Surprisingly, his wines, which are 100% Malbec, sell in the $13 to $20 range.

“The Prince is very passionate about the role of wine in food. He’s written three cookbooks, one of which has just debuted on the English-speaking market. He likes to combine food with wine as well as with poetry, which he writes as well. He’s something of a Renaissance man in that regard.”

The wines are dark red in color and very intense. They have a delicate aroma of ripe cherries on the nose and a silky feel in the month. Hints of pepper and spice linger on the back of the throat as the concentrated flavors work their way across the palette. Surprisingly, no oak is used in the vinification of most Malbecs of the Cahors. The entire flavor comes from the rich, chalky ‘terroir’ or soil character and the gnarly, wooden-like ‘old vines’ that date back some sixty years. “To us, these are still considered new vines, because everything was wiped out by the deadly War. In the U.S, these would be considered ‘Old Vines’, but to us, they are still new.”

The Miami tasting marked the U.S. premiere of Chateau de Cayx’s newest wine, Cuvee Majesty. “We have been looking for an excuse to come up with a new cuvee, so we decided to celebrate the Prince’s 70^th Birthday with the release of Cuvee Majesty,” Guillaume said proudly.

“The wine is very special because it best represents the terroir of the estate. The terroir is very special because it is primarily on the slopes of the property. The wines all grow on terraces. All of the vineyards face the meandering river. It’s a very beautiful and the soil is very different if you up high on the hill as opposed to down the hill. The concentration and consistency of the soil is constantly changing as you approach the higher elevations. That’s what gives the wine its intensity and elegance.”

Chateau de Cayx was but one of the superb wines of the Cahors represented at the tasting. Christian Villand lives in the south of France but spends a great deal of his time in the United States promoting the sale of the more than dozen labels of wines of the Cahors that he represents.

“Everybody thinks Malbec was born in Argentina, but that’s not true. We are the original! But, in all fairness, its probably our fault because we didn’t communicate with the rest of the world. First of all, we are all very small producers and we don’t have the kind of marketing engine behind us that Argentina has. We’re the only region in France that’s raising Malbec and using it almost 100% in the production of our wines. Bordeaux sometimes blends a small amount in their wines, but we use Malbec almost exclusively. Therefore, that makes us more special.”

Cahors, the French Malbec is a new player in the world wine marketing arena. Look for the words “Cahors Appellation on the label when perusing the shelves in the French wine section of your local retailer. You might be in store for a pleasant and affordable surprise.

St. Supery of the Napa Valley-Wine as Art

by Dwight Casimere

The first thing that strikes you as you enter the expansive private tasting rooms of St Supery Winery along St. Helena Highway in the Napa Valley, are the modern paintings, all by local artists, that line the walls.

Strategically placed picture windows reveal the presence of large stainless steel tanks and row upon row of oak wine barrels, letting you know that this, indeed, is a fully functioning, first-class winery, but it is the art that makes a definitive statement.

Within moments, the tasting room manager arrives with a selection of wines-the latest releases-which firmly makes the case for wine as art.

All of the wines at St. Supery are estate wines and reflect the French heritage of the owners, the Robert Skalli’s of Bordeaux. “The family has made wine in the South of France for several generations,” the tasting room manager informs me, “and the family owns wineries and vineyards all over Europe. This is their first and only American venture and they’ve been quite successful at it. “Robert Skalli was inspired to purchase the property during the 1970s by the lush beauty of the Napa Valley, which reminded him of the hillsides of his native Bordeaux. The first plantings at Dollarhide, a former horse ranch, were primarily of the noble grapes of Bordeaux and are the source of his celebrated Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Élu and Virtu are blends of classic Bordeaux grape varietals, crafted from St. Supery’s estate-grown fruit by winemaker Michael Scholz. These blends combine the best wines from our estate of each vintage.

“The wines are well established on the wine lists at most fine restaurants around the country, but they’re also available at most fine wine shops and retailers who carry finer wines.”

I was seated at a private table facing a wall of exquisite paintings. It was like sipping wine in a private gallery at a modern art museum, like the Guggenheim in New York.

I tasted a broad selection of wines that ranged from the winery’s everyday drinking wines, 2009 Sauvignon Blanc and 2008 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay to its 2008 Dollarhide Sauvignon Blanc and 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, to the small lot Limited Edition wines that are extracted from unique vineyards plots within the estate and the Library Selection which are perfectly aged wines that are for special, limited-time release and are available primarily on the most discriminating restaurant wine lists, to wine club members and at the winery.

As I tasted the wines, I found myself writing furiously with a thesaurus’s list of superlatives that would fill a Dostoyevsky novel.

The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc ($23) is the flagship of St. Supery winery. The ‘vin ordinaire’ of the winery’s offerings, it is anything but. It has an intense citrus nose with pronounced grapefruit and citrus notes on the palette and a focused flavor of lemon and lime. There’s a hint of guava and clover as it cascades down the back of the throat, but the finish stops short there. It’s an excellent wine to serve as a starter, or aperitif for a garden party or afternoon barbeque. It goes great with salads and fruit and won’t break the pocketbook. I’d say load up on this one if you see it at your local wine store or supermarket.

The Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($30) is a different story altogether. This estate grown Chardonnay could stand up to anything more than twice its price. It has a lot of complexity for a medium-priced Chardonnay. This is where the art of winemaking comes in. Spiced baked apples come to mind when you smell the aroma of this well-crafted Modigliani. Ripe pears and the distant aroma of newly cut grass on a summer’s day make you long for the languid, summer days of youth. It’s the kind of wine you’d have on a sailboat, bobbing listlessly in waters becalmed by light, afternoon breezes. There’s a nice balance of toasty oak and a hint of spice that would make grilled lamb or flavorful kielbasas or Cajun-spiced chicken andouille or shrimp etouffee a perfect flavor combination. This wine is truly delicious!

Dollarhide Limited Edition wines firmly make the case for the winery’s unique Dollarhide Estate and the winemaking skill of Winemaker Michael Scholz and the stewardship of Vineyard Operations manager Josh Anstey. Its 600 to 775 foot elevation, diverse terrain and unique microclimate give the wines a distinctive character that is particularly accommodating to Bordeaux-styled grape varieties. Hence, the kind of intense flavor experience that only a handcrafted wine can bring.

2008 Dollarhide Sauvignon Blanc ($37) is first up. Bright apricot and nectarine envelope the tongue and melt into the floral and mineral aftertaste that lingers long on the palette as nutmeg and allspice begin to dance across the back of your mouth. I’m thinking of a delicious Thai curried chicken or Tofu dish; perhaps something with a little bit of coconut in it.

2005 Dollarhide Cabernet Sauvignon ($85) has the entire dark, rich black cherry flavor you would expect from a well-crafted Napa Valley Cab. Cinnamon and vanilla and a rounded oakiness give this wine elegance and structure. There’s a touch of chocolate and tobacco at the end that lets you know this is a wine that can age just as beautifully as it drinks now. Savor this with a prime aged New York Strip or marinated Leg of Lamb done on the grill. Morrell mushrooms or Truffles would make a nice addition if you were in the mood to splurge. Why not, you only live once!

The Library Selections, 2005 Dollarhide Cabernet ($85)

And 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) were in a class by themselves. The 2000 Cab reveals layer upon layer of deep plum and raspberry flavor with a hint of licorice. This wine is almost too complex to have with food. A well-stocked fireplace and your favorite music in the background are the only accompaniments you would need or want. Food would just get in the way. The 1999 Cabernet is a more elegant and refined version of the same. It’s a real example of what oak aging will do to a truly great wine. This one is to be enjoyed now and for fifty bucks ($36 for Wine Club members) it’s a steal. You owe it to yourself to seek this one out. You might even catch it on sale at your local wine shop. I took a bottle of each home to savor at my leisure. I felt like Indiana Jones bringing home the Holy Grail.

“By the way, there is no St. Supery. It’s strictly a figment of the owner’s. One of the early names attached to the property was Supery, so the owners took it from there. We even had a contest to inspire local artists to come up with a likeness for our logo.” Thus, wine inspires art!

St. Supéry Vineyards and Winery
8440 St. Helena Hwy. PO Box 38
Rutherford CA 94573

www.stsupery.com

Email: 
divinecab@stsupery.com

Phone Numbers: 
Winery phone 1.707.963.4507
Fax 1.707.963.4526
Winery toll free 1.800.942.0809