THE SANGIOVESE WINE GRAPE AS SEEN THROUGH THE WINEMAKERS OF MONTECUCCO AND MORELLINO di SCANSANO OF MAREMMA, THE 'UNDISCOVERED" TUSCANY

By Dwight Casimere

Photos: Donna Binbeck

The wines of Montecucco and Morellino di Scansano

Left-Daniele Rosellini-Owner of Campi Nuovi-Montecucco
Center -Giacomo Pondini, Dir. of the Consorzio Tutela a Vino Morellino di Scansano DOCG
Right-Silvia Copetti-Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco

Eataly's La Scuola was the setting for a journey of discovery into the wines of Montecucco and Morellino di Scansano from the unique territory of Maremma, Tuscany's "undiscovered" region. The area, along the southern coast of Tuscany, has long been a prime agricultural area, long recognized for producing quality Sangiovese grapes, the king of Italian wine grapes. The Mediterranean character of the region make for ideal conditions for growing grapes and making wines.

The Sangiovese grape is the unifying factor of Montecucco and Morellino di Scansano. How it is interpreted by winemakers in the two growing regions is a lesson in how the nuances of terroir and the art of the winemaker can express the unique characteristics of the wines produced in these two distinct territories within Maremma. It is a tale of two wine regions, told through the unifying voice of the Sangiovese grape.

 The complex soil stresses the vines, creating concentrated flavors in the grapes

 The vineyards of Montecucco

 The culinary team at La Scuola Eataly

Pumpkin Sformato 

Roasted Pork Loin with Carrots, Red Cabbage and Pan Sauce


Twelve wines were presented with a four course luncheon prepared by La Scuola Chef Adam Weissell. Borrowing heavily on his personal culinary experience in the Tuscan region.
Each course was served with a grouping of wines that were complimentary.

Menu items included; Pumpkin Sformato with Red Wine-Braised Lentils, Gorgonzola and Marjoram, Risotto "Sotto Bosco" with Porcini Mushrooms and Fresh Currants, Roasted Pork Loin with Carrots, Red Cabbage and Pan Sauce, followed by Fall Fruit and Hazelnut Cream Tart with Caramel Sauce

 La Scuola Chef Adam Weissell prepares Risotto "Sotto Bosco" with Porcini Mushrooms and Fresh Currants for the Second Course

As terrific as the food was, it was the wine that took center stage, as presented by the heads of the Consorzios Tutela Montecucco and Morellino di Scansano.

                                       

Daniele Rosellini-Owner of Campi Nuovi-Montecucco with La Sculoa Chef Adam Weissell

Ribusieri Chiaranotte Montecucco Vermentino DOC 2014 was the first wine to be presented with the first course of pumpkin sformato with red wine-braised lentils, gorgonzola and marjoram.  This was a true savory dish that captured the flavors of autumn. The wine presented itself with a great deal of elegance and subtlety. It was very complete in every way. At $12 a bottle, it has a great deal to speak for it at that price point, It's certainly a must at the table as the fall and holiday season advances upon us.  Fattoria Mantellassi MENTORE Morellino di Scansano DOCG 2014-$15 is in search of an importer. It's a pity its not available now, because this was another stunning wine that worked well with fall flavors. 

 Susannah Gold of Vignetto Communications presided over the presentation with the Consortium leaders from Montecucco and Morellino di Scansano

Brian Duncan, formerly of Bin 36, provided illuminating commentary on the Maremma region

Terre Di Fiori Morellino di Scansano DOCG 2014-$16 is on the wine lists at a number of top Italian restaurants in New York and Chicago and is available at Eataly and other fine wine shops. With its flavors of ripe red strawberries and tart raspberries with a touch of balsamic and fresh sage, this is a vibrant example of how lively a Sangiovese can be. Complex flavors of black cherries and a hint of licorice hang in the background, giving a hint of the winemaker's artful aging process in large oak casks. This is a wine that loves being at the table with food. 

The next course of Risotto "Sotto Bosco" with porcinis and currants is an Eataly favorite, and just the right flavor combination with a fruity Sangiovese wine. 

Risotto "Sotto Bosco" with Porcini Mushrooms and Fresh Currants

WINE AND FOOD PAIRINGS

Colle Massari Montecucco Rosso Riserva 2012-$35 is a beautifully balanced wine full of black fruit and spice that fills the mouth without being too powerful. Its great with risotto and mushrooms and even more at home with Roast Pork Loin. Aging for 2 years in fine oak barrels brings out all of the spice notes that make this a truly great wine for any fine meal.

WINE OF THE WEEK: ADRAS 2013 MENCIA FROM THE RIBEIRA SACRA

THE PERFECT RED WINE FOR THANKSGIVING TURKEY FROM GALICIA, SPAIN-$19

by Dwight Casimere

This bright, lively red wine from the heart of Galicia in northwestern Spain will be a welcome guest at your Thanksgiving table. Its bright red color gives an indication of what's inside the bottle; a youthful red wine with intense, concentrated flavors of ripe raspberries, cranberry and a touch of anise, just like the flavors of many of the dishes on your holiday table.

The wine is made from grapes grown in the hills below the Cantabrian Mountains, an area bound by the Mino and Sil Rivers. The rivers flow down to the Atlantic Ocean and the combination of complex soils, ocean breezes and the low-yeilding vines stressed by the rocky soil, produce a wine of unparalleled richness and concentration. A hint of salt from the ocean breeze adds just the right touch to make this wine a delicious accompaniment to food. Its especially great with your Herb-encrusted Turkey and accompanying Sage Dressing. This wine will have your taste buds singing!

Winemaking in this region of Spain dates back to Roman times. The practice flourished under the tutelage of the Monks in the Middle Ages. The name Ribeira Sacre, means "sacred river bank" and refers to the spectacular canyon that lines the Sil River. More than a dozen medieval monasteries, filled with artistic treasures, line its hills and banks, a reminder of the rich artistic heritage of the region and its historic significance.

 Monuments dating to the Roman Times dot the hillsides of Galicia, Spain


                                             

 The rocky soils stress the vines producing wines of concentrated flavors and rich complexity

Tastes of red plum, currant and salt are indicative of wines from the region and Adras 2013 Mencia is one of the area's prime examples. At less than $20 a bottle, you can imagine yourself floating down the picturesque Sil river, without ever leaving the comfort of your home during the Holidays.

GRAND CRUS CLASSES OF SAINT-EMILION 2015 USA TASTING TOUR

PREMIERE FRENCH WINES IN FLASHY SHOWCASE IN NEW YORK, CHICAGO AND SAN FRANCISCO

Story and photos by Dwight Casimere

                                                   
Savoring the floral perfume of Grand Crus Classes Saint-Emilion

 Anabelle Cruse-Bardinet-winemaker and owner of Chateau Corbin

The historic village of Saint-Emilion in summer

NEW YORK---Saint-Emilion is one of the most picturesque and historic towns in all of Bordeaux France. Located on  the Right Bank of Gironde River, the region has been growing grapes and creating wine wince the time of the Romans. Primarily Merlot based, with a measure of Cabernet Franc blended in for structure and body, the wines are awash with flavors of black fruit and the plush richness brought by the rich, complex soil composed of sand, limestone gravel and clay.

                                                     

In prehistoric times, the area was submerged under the sea and in some areas the calcerous soil is dotted with the skeletal remains of crustaceous sea life, which further adds to the richness of the soil and the unique structure and character of the resulting wines. These are wines to be savored with your favorite cheeses or charcuterie. They also marry well with Prime Aged Steaks and game meat. They're practically a must of the Holiday table with its centerpiece Turkey, Ham, Standing Crown Roast or Leg of Lamb. Rich sauces and side dishes are the wine's favored companions; try sage dressing, bread pudding, hearty mac n'cheese, cinnamon spice yams and the ubiquitous cranberry jelly mold. Even savory desserts like candied fruit cake, rich German Chocolate Cake, chocolate mousse or Flaming Puddings are a terrific match. The possibilities are endless. If you run out of ideas or are simply exhausted by the plethora of choices, open a bottle, sit back and relax and enjoy a moment of solace before your Holiday guests arrive.

 The Grand Crus Classes tasting at Metropolitan Pavilion-NYC

Brian Dudley, Sales Manager Stuyvesant Liquors Distributors savors a glass of Saint-Emilion

 Brian Dudley  with Tamara Fish, The Presentation Professional

The art gallery setting for the Grands Crus tasting at San Francisco's Terra

 The dramatic architectural splendor of  Venue Six10 atop the Spertus Institute for Jewish Learning and Leadership on Chicago's scenic lakefront

The Association de Grands Crus Classes de Saint-Emilion embarked on its 2015 Tasting Tour in three major cities, in New York at the Metropolitan Pavilion, Chicago at the architecturally stunning Venue Six10 atop the Spertus Institute for Jewish Learning and Leadership and in San Francisco's Terra Gallery near the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and the Gallery District.  The artistic setting was appropriate to the art-in-the-bottle presented by the 25 winemakers who were present to personally pour their 2010 and 2012 vintages in their US debut.

Most of the wines sampled hovered in the $25-$65 (most costing $35-$45) range, not cheap, but well worth the price. They pack a lot of flavor and body into their wines. If you're a lover of French wines, as I am, you may recognize some of the names; Chateau De Pressac, Clos De Jacobins, Chateau Dassault, Chateau Grand-Pontet.

 Among my personal favorites was the 2010 Chateau de Ferrand, which can be had for about $35 a bottle. Marie Pourquet poured a generous tasting portion for me and I was amazed at the distinctive floral aroma. It had the perfume of fresh-cut roses. A blend of 75% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine is fermented in 50% stainless steel and 50% glass-tiled concrete, a practice of many of the producers in the area. It preserves not only the natural fruit flavors, but enhances the unique soil characteristics of the regions terroir, which is a blend of clay and sand on a layer of iron-rich clay. The wine is produced by means of organic viticultural methods from 42 year old vines that are picked at optimum ripeness in early October. 

 Chateau Cote de Baleau 2010-$29

 Sylvie Cazes-owner, Chateau Chauvin with her 2010 vintage-$41

 Jacqueline Sioen Proprietaire  Chateau La Marzelle-2010 vintage $32. 2012 vintage $30

 Francois Despagne with his 2010 Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne-$35

 Caroline Blondeel of Chateau Fonroque with her 2010 vintage-$35

 The vineyards and estate at Chateau Fonroque

 Emmanuel de Saint Salvy of Bellefont Belchier pouring his 2012 vintage-$40

Sophie Fourcade of Chateau Cote de Baleau and Les Grandes Murailles, Clos Saint Martin


GRAND CRUS CLASSES SAINT-EMILION A CAVALCADE OF COMPLEX FLAVORS

The taste of the wine is arresting. First your mouth is awash in flavors of dark fruits; plums, ripe blackberries tinged with anise. The opulent fruit is supported by an undercurrent of minerality from the rich and complex soil from which the grapes are derived.

The wine is made in the north of the Saint-Emilion appellation, close to the famed Pomerol. Its a pedigree that shows in the final product.

Francois Despagne grabbed my attention in order to pour me his 2012 Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne-(about $47), another  75% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. The wine gets a distinct toast from aging in French oak from various origins and 50% each of old and new oak casks. Oenologist Jean-Philippe Fort uses all organic viticultural methods to achieve spectacular results.

It's always nice to see a familiar face at these trade tastings, and Guy Meslin, owner of Chateau Laroze tugged at my sleeve to pour me his 2010 Chateau Laroze, a steal at $45. The grapes are grown at the foot of a western slope about a mile or so from the village. The unique soil composition of silica over clay gives the wine its distinctive character and structure. A blend of 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the grapes are grown on 20 year old vines and fermented in stainless steel and concrete. Consulting oenologists Hubert de Bouard  of Angelus and Jean-Philippe Fort of Rolland Consulting (boy, they really get around in the region!), have created a masterpiece using slow, careful fermentation at low temperatures and aging in varying combinations of old and new French oak. The wines they produce are a symphony of complex flavors and aromas.

Anabelle Cruse-Bardinet is the winemaker to Chateau Corbin 2012 ($23), a powerful blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this wine comes from one of the oldest estates in St. Emilion, dating back to the 15th century. The great grandparents of the current owners, the Cruse family, bought the estate in 1924. Since 1999, the chateau has been managed by Anabelle Cruse-Bardinet and her winemaking team (Jean-Philippe Fort and Michel Rolland strike again!). Her cousin, Emmanuel Cruse manages Chateau d'Issan in the Marguax, so there must be something in the genes. Also unique is the fact that the line of succession at Chateau Corbin has been passed from mother to daughter for multiple generations.

 Anabelle Crus-Bardinet relaxing at Chateau Corbin

Fermentation in concrete tanks preserved the unique fruit-foward flavor characteristic of the wine. Aging in 100% French oak barrels (40-50% new each year), makes this one of the best tasting wines of the day with its roundness and balance. A healthy hunk of Blue Cheese was all that was needed to bring out the best in this luscious wine.

Look for the wines of the Grands Crus Classes of Saint-Emilion.  It's a bargain-priced passport to France that will take you on a delightful journey of flavor sensations.

 Kathleen Harrington of Premiere Tastings Inc.

 Clos St. Martin 2010-$80

 David Laklovits and Mike Kuiken of cheapwinefinder.com
Below: Shirley Chan of LPL Financial

America Welcomes Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2006 With Open Arms

Comtes de Champagne 2006 is the first vintage since the Taittinger family regained control

of the legendary Champagne house

Story and photos by Dwight Casimere

NEW YORK--Global Ambassador Vitalie Taittinger flew to the United States to personally oversee the American Premiere of Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2006. "With a smile on my face and a flutter in my heart, I am pleased to bring you something truly special," Vitalie said proudly to the expectant crowd of wine industry professionals. 

"Our Comtes de Champagne 2006 is the first vintage simce my family regained control of the Champagne House. " To mark the ocassion, Vitalie hosted an exclusive seminar tasting, led by herself and Kobrand French Portfolio Brand Director Bernie Sun and Guest Sommelier Heidi Turzyn, Wine Director for the renowned Gotham Bar and Grill.  The lucky seminar participants got to taste and compare the 2006 vintage with its counterparts from 2005. Afterwards, Vitalie hosted a reception in a luxurious Library Lounge setting This was an exceptional experience indeed!

Vitalie Taittinger, Artistic Director and Global Ambassador for Champagne Taittinger

                                                           with Dwight Casimere

 Presenting Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2006-$142  and (below) Comtes de Champagne Rose 2005-$239

 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose 2005-$239

THE CHAMPAGNE OF JAMES BOND ARRIVES IN THE US

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne has become a virtual fixture of global pop culture, appearing often in movies. You're probably see a glass or two hoisted in the new James Bond movie as it is often referred to as "the Champagne of James Bond."

This new release is Taittinger's 37th vintage and is a shining example of 100% Chardonnay  Blanc de Blanc which altered the course of the wine industry and spawned a completely new category of 100% Chardonnay Champagne.

"We constantly push ourselves to become the best,"  Vitalie told the gathering. "Its important to remember that excellence is a process of constant evolution and innovation; from looking into new types of glass to recyclable paper and exploring new methods of harvesting, corking and bottling."

Comtes de Champagne Brut Blanc de Blanc is characterized by its creamy mouth feel, aromas of white flowers, bright flavors of lemon zest, white peaches and toasted brioche and its complex long, crisp finish. It is delicious with shellfish, sushi and white game meats such as pheasant or guinea hen or the Holiday turkey. Drinking it alone as an aperitif or relaxing after dinner can be equally as satisfying.

 Comtes de Champagne Brut Blanc de Blanc 2006-$122, 2005-$134

Filling the famed Taittinger Champagne Pyramid in celebration

COMTES DE CHAMPAGNE: UNRIVALED QUALITY, UNPARALLELED TASTE

Comtes de Champagne is the ultimate expression of the Taittinger style. Composed entirely of Chardonnay grapes grown in the top vineyards of the prestigious Cotes des Blancs, it uses only the juice of the first press, a portion of which is is aged in new oak barrels. The wine is the aged for 10 years on the expired yeast in 13th century chalk cellars that were once the property of Saint Nicaise abbey.

"This process gives the Champagne its richness, structure and complex flavor," said French Portfolio Brand Director for Kobrand Bernie Sun. "The longer you taste Comtes de Champagne, the more thedifferent flavors begin to unfold."

Starting with the aroma of freshly crushed red rose petals in the Rose, to luscious flavors of wild strawberries, mandarin orange and back notes of vanilla and cinnamon spice, candied apples and a touch of smoke, the flavor profile gets deeper and more complex with every sip.

Taittinger Champagne definitely goes with food and the combinations are dizzying, all the way from hot and cold appetizers and assorted cheeses to lavish main dishes such as gourmet favorites steak tartare, foie gras glazed with ripe figs or  tender veal filets simmered in Dijon mustard sauce.

Dessert is a natural with Comtes de Champagne. Think rich chocolate mousse, crunchy glazed Creme Brulee'  or Tarte Tatin. The flavor combinations are endless with Taittinger Comtes de Champagne!
For more information, visit www.taittinger.com.


Global Brand Ambassador Vitalie Taittinger and Guest Sommelier Heidi Turzyn, Wine Director,
                                   Gotham Bar and Grill lead Comtes De Champagne Seminar

 Global Ambassador Vitalie Taittinger and Guest Sommelier Heidi Turzyn lead the seminar