Tenuta di Bibbiano among Italy's best Chianti Classico's and under $20

Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG ($14) is our Wine of the Week


Wines Reviewed by Dwight Casimere October 16, 2013
photo gallery by Dwight Casimere


WASHINGTON, D.C.--Streets leading up to Capitol Hill were virtually devoid of traffic and pedestrians on what turned out to be the final day of the U.S. Government shutdown. While President Obama and Congressional leaders were making their announcements on the agreement to end the stalemate, a small  group of wine journalists and trade officials were gathered in a private dining room at Bibiana Osteria-Enoteca, considered among the nation's 100 Best Restaurants. Bibbiano Chianti Classico was also presented to the media the previous evening in a special dinner at Spiaggia, on Chicago's Magnificent Mile, a restaurant favorite of President Obama and the First Lady.

Bibbiano proprietor Tommaso Marrocchesi Marzi is the fifth generation of the winery, located in Castelina-in-Chianti. The winery has been owned by the Marrocchesi Marzi family since 1865, but the history of the property actually goes back to 1089. With vineyards located on steep hillsides and in verdant valleys in calcareous clay and alberese stony soils in the Chianti Classico wine zone of Tuscany, this is a noble wine estate with spectacular wines. Surprisingly, most of the wines produced at Tenuta di Bibbiano sell for under $20, with  average prices around $14-$16 a bottle. Tasting the wines with the cuisines of Bibiano Executive Chef Nicholans Stefanelli and his emphasis on regional Italian cuisine, the wines were a revelation, especially considering the high quality in relation to their reasonable price.

Four wines were presented, the 2010 Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG ($14), a young, vibrant ruby red wine that can be drunk everyday with just about anything your heart desires: pizza, salmon, roast chicken, and certainly pastas with your favorite red sauce-marinara comes to mind. Flavors of fresh , ripe red cherries and raspberries, literally dripping juice from the corners of your mouth with a final hint of Tahitian vanilla in the background. There's a new fresh taste with every sip that really intensifies in the presence of good food. Here, Chef Stefanelli pairs the wine with a fresh, tangy classic Roman salad called Misticanza, composed of tangy arugula, wild herbs and balsamic vinegar or 'aceto' as it's called in Italy. Another accompanying dish was a mouth-filling pasta soup, Pasta E Fagioli (bean soup) made with heft white beans, dusted with Parmesan cheese with a dollop of fresh Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EEVO) as the grace note. This is the type of rustic meal, served with fresh, crusty homemade Italian bread, served warm, straight from the ovens, that is the mainstay of Cucina Italiano.

The next course, a pasta madeof Gnocchi (potato dumplings) made with smoked potatoes, seasonal vegetables and dusted with Parmesan cheese accompanied the spectacularly dark and elegant Bibbiano 2009 Chianti Classico DOPCG Montornello, a 100% Sangiovese, a native Tuscany grape,  available at most wine shops and online at about $16. Ripe plum and rich dark cherry and tart cranberries combine with flavors of chewy figs and hints of crushed red rose petals and flavors in the back of the throat of Macanudo tobacco and hints of oak make this a well-balanced wine perfect for roasted meats, chicken cacciatore (hunter's stew), meaty lasagna and beef stew. Its a great wine to have with a hearty late fall or winter meal.

The main courses of Pollo; roasted free range chicken served with white polenta and mushroom ragu and Bue; grilled sirloin served with Anson Mills stone ground polenta, slow roasted sweet carrots and balsam was served with the centerpiece wine, Bibbiano 1999 Chianti Classico Reserva Capannino which breaks the bank at a still modest $22.50.

A special treat, which seemed as if offered as a small reward for the effort of taking a four-hour bus ride from Penn Station in New York in order to attend this special lunch, was the Vin Santo San Lorenzo $45), a late harvest wine which, unfortunately, is only available at the winery at Castelina-in-Chianti. Chef Stefanelli whipped up a mean Cioccolato; Chocolate Ganache Terrine with a crispy chocolate crust and a healthy scoop of his handmade vanilla/ginger ice cream. Lingering behind to taste the wine by itself, as good as the chocolate dessert was, it was obvious that this mildly honey-sweet beauty needs no accompaniment, only soft music and candlelight and the right companion.

 Bibbiano proprietor Tommaso Marrocchesi Marzi

 Tommaso with Dwight Casimere

 Cioccolato with Vin Santo San Lorenzo

 Main course of Grilled Sirloin with Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino

 Tommaso Marzi presents his wines to the media over lunch at Bibiana Osteria-Enoteca-Washington,D.C.

 Smoked Potato Gnocchi with Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG Montornello

 Cioccolato Chocolate Ganache with Bibbiano Vin Santo San Lorenzo

Wine of the Week-Biltmore Reserve Chardonnay 2012 North Carolina

A crisp, fruit-forward Chardonnay that really delivers for under $20


by Dwight Casimere


It's no secret that great wines are being produced in virtually every state of the Union. North Carolina can now lay claim to one of the best values in a fruit-forward Chardonnay that sells for only $15. Small production under rigorous standards of excellence is a large part of the reason this wine if so appealing. Barrel fermented in both French and American oak, the wine achieves a delicate balance between crisp, golden apple and Key Lime.  fruit, with hints of honeydew melon, vanilla and a slight backnote of lychee. For those who like Chardonnay with a buttery aftertaste, as so many Americans do, this wine does not disappoint, nor does it go overboard. Shrimp, lobster and oysters are the first food pairing choices that come to mind. Pasta in a light cream sauce, dusted with Asiago cheese and loaded with fresh, briny shrimp, or Maryland crab cakes make a great Saturday night meal, as would a lovely pink slice of smoked salmon with lemon and capers. Serve well-chilled and have an extra bottle on hand as the first goes down easy!

Biltmore Estate was founded by George Vanderbilt, the grandson of railroad and steamship magnate Cornelius Vanderbilt. Built in the 1890's to resemble a French chateau, the grounds are covered with hundreds of trees, planted there by Frederick Law Olmstead, the designer of New York's Central Park. The estate, considered the largest home in America, was first envisioned by George Vanderbilt while vacationing in the North Carolina countryside near Asheville. He turned a sorry stretch of plowed-over bottom lands and scraggly hillsides into a luxuriant complex gardens that would rival those found anywhere in Europe. Vineyards were planted at the estate in the early 1970s by William Cecil, George Vanderbilt's grandson. With 150 acres of vineyards planted in the late 1970s, Wiiliam Cecil traveled to France and hired Phillipe Jourdain, a sixth-generation winemaster to chart the future of Biltmore Winery. With the Biltmore Estate Wine Company formally established in 1983. Bill Cecil, son of William Cecil, assumed leadership and in a short time, opened the winery to the public. Bernard Delille, a native of France with a master's degree in biochemistry, rose from assistant winemaker to Winemaster and Vice President of the Winery upon the retirement of Phillipe Jourdain. In 1999, Sharon Fenchak

 WWilliam Cecil, Biltmore Estate Winery founder

 Vineyards at the Biltmore Estate

 The Biltmore Estate in Fall

 The house and gardens with trees planted by Frederick Law Olmstead, the designer of Central Park, New York City

 GGeorge Vanderbilt III

 PPhillipe Jourdaine Founding Winemaster

Bernard Delille, Winemaster and Vice President

 Winemaker Sharon Fenchak

 The tasting room and retail shop at the winery

who holds a master's degree in food science from the University of Georgia, joined the winemaking team. Her passion for crafting fine wines and her love of cuisine were nurtured while she lives in Vicenza, Italy and traveled extensively throughout that country. Her involvement in developing new grape-growing technologies and production methods dovetails perfectly with winemaker Bernard Delille exacting standards in creating high-quality wines that are true to their varietal character.

The Biltmore Reserve Collection includes Biltmore Reserve Pinot Noir 2011 Russian River Valley ($24.99), a bright garnet red beauty with lush flavors of ripe plum, wild strawberry and raspberry with hints of vanilla and baking spices and dark, turned earth notes that make it the ideal companion to that forthcoming Holiday Turkey! Crowning the portfolio is The Bilttmore Estate Sparkling Collection is their crowning achievement and the award-winning embodiment of the grand legacy of the Biltmore Estate. Biltmore Estate Blanc de Blancs Methode Champenoise-Brut 2009 (a steal at @24.99) is 100% Russian River Valley Chardonnay. Sourced at one of the most famed vineyard locales in Sonoma County, the grapes are harvested at their peak of acidity and cold fermented in stainless steel begfore undergoing a secondary fermentation in the bottle and then aging for at least another two years before disgorging. Straw, yellow gold coloration is an indication of the hazelnut and honey flavor notes with a hint of Golden Delicious apple. Refreshing and well-balanced with persistent bubbles and bracing acidity, this is a terrific sparkler made in the traditional method and perfect for toasts around the Holiday table and for ringing in the New Year 2014.

Wine of the Week: Perticaia Montefalco Rosso-$14

Fall Harvest is the perfect time for this lush, robust Ruby-red wine that can be drunk throughout the meal

by Dwight Casimere

Perticaia Montefalco Rosso is an intense, but versatile wine that hails from one of Italy's newest "old" discoveries, the Umbria region, home of the indigenous Sagrantino grape, which is one of the key components of this rich, food-friendly wine.  A blend of three distinctly Italian grapes, 70% Sangiovese,15% Sagrantino and 14% Colorino, Perticaia Montefalco Rosso is a full-bodied wine that is a tremendous value at around $14. The wine goes with just about anything you'd serve at the Fall table, from salami and cold cuts to pasta and first course dishes to traditional Umbrian cuisine or Mediterranean cuisine. The wine is fresh, with the taste of wild ripe red berries with flavors of wild strawberries, raspberries and lingering notes of blueberries mixed in. The mild tannins make it a great wine to pair with food. It can be enjoyed right away or laid down in the cellar for up to five years. Hearty fall dishes such as braised squash risotto, Osso Buco (braised lamb shanks), lasagna, eggplant Parmesan or old fashioned oxtail stew are perfect with Perticaia Montefalco Rosso. 

A note about the Sagrantino grape: It's the newest noble wine variety of Italy, dating back to 1549 in Montefalco. The Sagrantino name can be traced back as far as 1088, when monks began cultivating the grape to create a sweet, raisin wine used for religious rites. The grape almost disappeared from Umbrian vineyards in the 1960s, but diligent work by a few pioneering producers in conjunction with scientists at the local university, reintroduced the grape and the producers obtained the D.O.C. label in 1979. The Sagrantino grape is now used to produce outstanding wines, either as 100% Sagrantino or as a blending grape with a host of local and international varietals. In 1998, the few Sagrantino vines that still flourished within the city walls of Montefalco were labeled and classified. Some were found to date back to 1700 and 1800. The sacred nature and lineage of the wine is affirmed by their presence in the ancient monasteries of St. Claire and St. Leonard.

Helfrich Noble Varieties: As easy to enjoy as ABC

Helfrich Wines from Alsace perfect with light Harvest fare

Story and photo gallery byDwight Casimere

NEW YORK--Greenwich Village's famed abc kitchen, the local organic home creation of Master Chef/Owner Jean Georges Vongerichten and Executive Chef Dan Kluger  was the setting for the introduction of the portfolio of Helfrich Noble Varieties, the wines of Alscace  in a tasting event hosted by Anne-Laurie Helfrich, representing the sixth generation of the famed Alsatian winemaking family, and abc kitchen Chef  de Cuisine Karen Shu. The tasting featured the restaurant's acclaimed  vegetarian creations and imaginative seafood presentations along with an exclusive tasting of Helfrich Cremant d'Alsace ($19.99), 2012 Pinot Blanc ($14.99), 2012 Helfrich Riesling ($14.99, followed by an elaborate menu pairing with 2011 Helfrich Pinot Gris Grand Cru ($19.99), 2011 Riesling Grand Cru ($19.99) and the exceptional 2009 Helfrich Gewurztraminer Grand Cru (also $19.99).  All of the Grand Cru vintages are from the famed Steinklotz vineyard, one of only 51 vineyards in all of Alsace that has the Grand Cru designation. Paired with chef Shu's cuisine it was a gastronomic experience of the first order.

Alsace is the second most northern winemaking region in France after Champagne. Historically situated between French and German cultures, it has been a winemaking region since the Roman era. The unique climate and topography of Alsace make for some exquisite wines that reflect the long growing season and the complex combination of soils, resulting in wines of exquisite crispness and character, ranging from elegant dry white wines to several types of sweet late harvest wines and a surprisingly luscious sparkling wine, Cremant D' Alsace, which began the  abc kitchen tasting experience, paired with the chef's Amuse Bouche, a flavorful and colorful bruschetta of Heirloom tomatoes, brushed with olive oil and covered with a dusting of fresh, garden thyme.

The next courses provided an opportunity to taste all of the exceptional wines in tandem with a variety of house specialties, including the freshly shucked local sweet white corn-off-the-cob, which was a daily and seasonal special,  sauteed with jalapenos, sweet green peppers, oregano and shaved Parmesan cheese and a delightful composed salad of Arugula, fresh goat cheese and shaved late summer squash with a drizzling of extra virgin olive oil and white balsamic. The salad and sweet corn paired perfectly with the Helfrich Pinot Gris.

The next courses to arrive showcased not only the exceptional talents of chef Shu, but the versatility and depth of flavor of Helfrich Grand Crus. The wines are all single vineyard and 100% varietal, coming from the famed Steinklotz vineyard located at the extreme northern end of the Alsatian wine trail. The vineyard is located on a steep hill marked by rich soil comprised of 8" of loam covering hard calcareous bedrock. Anne-Laure Helfrich brought along a handfull of soil samples to put on display during the tasting.  This unique combination of soil types is largely responsible for the complex layering of flavors and the richness, structure and mouthfeel of her exceptional wines. Grapes are all harvested by hand and carefully manipulated through membrane pressing before they undergo cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks. "The Grand Cru, especially, is racked on fine lees to give it complex aromas, roundness and richness on the palate," Anne-Laure explained over bites of  shaved raw fluke ceviche with rushed olives, lemon and a dusting of chilies and wood oven roasted Maine Lobster with oregano and lemon-chili vinaigrette and Black Sea Bass with chilies and herbs, spinach and basil. "The wines have an intriguing blend of bright, citrus fruit paired with an intriguing smokiness and briary notes. Yet, they have a persistence in the mouth that reveals a well-balanced acidity."

The wines go with a variety of late Harvest dishes, including composed salads, late summer squash, sweet corn, Heirloom tomatoes, fish and shellfish, including sushi and ceviche. They even pair exceptionally well with lighter roasted or grilled meats such as veal, lamb, chicken or turkey. abc kitchen features a mean burger made with Grass Fed Akaushi Beef, which is a strain of Japanese beef, similar to Kobe beef, but of even higher quality, which is raised by Texas cattle ranchers. "The story goes," chef Shu explained, " is that a group of Texas ranches went to Japan to learn more about Kobe beef. Instead, they were led to another beef producing region that was said to be even better than Kobe, called Akaushi. After tasting the new variety, they decided to ship a herd of them to Texas and started raising them on American soil. Needless to say, the cattle are all Grass Fed and Free Range, and the taste and texture are to die for." The meat went perfectly with Helfrich Grand Cru Gewurztraminer and its hint of cardamum spice and white pepper. abc kitchen also has a veggie butrger, with minted yoga on housemade whole wheat pita, which I am told is the best veggie burger to be had anywhere. Next time. Kudos to Chef de Cuisine Shu and the marvelous kitchen and waitstaff for an exceptional tasting experience!

The terrific thing about Helfrich wines is that all of them, including the Grand Crus, are under $20. But hurry, if you're going to buy them, they are in very Limited National Availability. They're available at your favorite discriminating wine shop, such as Sherry Lehmann in New York or Binny's in Chicago. If you see them, grab a case or two, because I guarantee that at that price and that quality, they won't be around for very long. Bon Apetit!

 Dwight The Wine Doctor with Anne-Laure Helfrich

 Chef de Cuisine Karen Shu of ABC Kitchen

     

 Roasted Carrot and Avocado salad paired with Helrich Grand Cru

 Anne-Laure Helfrich displays the loam and calcareous soils responsible for her Pinot Gris's richness

 The Wood Oven-Roasted Maine Lobster with Helfrich Pinot Gris Grand Cru 2011

Chef de Cuisine Karen Shu with Anne-Laure Helfrich

The organic and seasonal cuisine of abc kitchen

Black Sea Bass with chilies and herbs

The chef's Amuse-Bouche of Heirloom tomato bruschetta

 Shaved Raw Fluke with crushed olives, lemon and chilies
Below: Silky Diver Scallop  sashimi with sea beans, green chilies and herbs

Wine of the Week: Damilano Barolo Cannubi $85

Langhe in Italy's Piemonte is home to the Nebbiolo grape and our wine of the week, Damilano Barolo Cannubi  $85

Story and photo gallery by Dwight Casimere 

 Dwight The Wine Doctor in the Langhe last spring

 With Damilano winemaker Bepper Caviola at the headquarters of Colangelo Partners

Barolo: "King of of Wines" and Italy's answer to French Grand Cru

by Dwight Casimere

Langhe holds a special place in Italy's Piemonte wine growing region. It is the home of Barolo, the rich, complex, Ruby-red wine made from the Nebbiolo grape, one of the most capricious in Italy's constellation of star-power varieties. Barolo is a wine of unique character, with refined and intense aromas and tastes that cause many aficionados to compare it to the finest of French Grand Crus, yet, at  it sells at a fraction of the price. Once such Barolo, which has recently been introduced on America's shores at fine dining restaurants and discriminating wine shops is Damilano Barolo. It is Damilano's flagship wine and is sure to garner praise among those who experience it. Therefore,  Damilano Barolo DOCG Cannubi 2008 ($85), is our Wine of the Week.
This sumptuous wine was unveiled in an exclusive private tasting at the headquarters of Colangelo Partners, a high-end wine marketing and public relations firm located in the heart of midtown Manhattan's 'advertising agency row.' Presiding over the intimate tasting for key wine journalists and sommeliers was Beppe Caviola, one of Italy's leading enologists, and winemaker for Damilano. In 2002, he received the Winemaker of the Year award from Gambero Rosso and Slow Food.

Caviola presented Damilano's dazzling portfolio of wines, among them Damilano Barolo DOCG Brunate 2006 ($75) and their entry-level Barolo, Damilano Barolo Lecinquevigne (five vineyards), so named because it is a blend of Nebbiolo grapes produced in the five municipalities of Verduno, Grinzane, Cavour, La Morra and Novello, a steal at $35 the bottle. Each of the wines presented had its own distinct character but the standout, hands down, was the Cannubi.

"This is our leading wine," Caviola said proudly, as he swirled his Riedel glass and took a hearty sip of the deep Garnet colored wine. "It's well extracted and full-bodied with ample tastes of luscious dark cherries and black plums with hints of tobacco, licorice and cocoa, yet its rich and elegant, with very smooth tanins. Its intense, but with a rose-petal floral bouquet. It's easily the best Barolo we produce in the Langhe."

Cannubi is  situated on a long hill that rises above the town of Barolo and stands at the intersection of a
unique combination of soils, which includes grey Tortonia marl (marble slate) and Helvetian sandstone. This distinct blend gives Cannubi its great individuality and complexity. With vines up to 50 years of age, the wine takes on a richness of character that draws on the magnesium and platinum-rich limestone and clay soils which lend Canubi an instense color and vibrant blend of flavors that results in a wine of great elegance and finesse. This is the wine to savor over the very best cut of Prime Aged Steak, or enjoyed in solitude while seated in your favor chair, savoring a fine Maduro cigar or listening to your favorite CD of Mozart or Trane. Matured in large oak barrels, to give it roundness and fullness of flavor, Damilano Cannubi tastes great consumed right now or even better if aged for twenty years or more. Ample reason to turn that old storage room into a wine cellar if you haven't already done so!