Monday, January 26, 2015

BENVENUTO BRUNELLO 2015-presented by the Consortium of the Brunello di Montalcino

Diverse soils, geography and climate create spectacular wines

Story and photo gallery by Dwight Casimere

 The Consortiium of the Brunello of Montalcino Wines brought more than a hundred of its best wines from 40 renowned wineries in this unique Mediterranean paradise in Italy's famed Tuscany region to the elegant confines of Gotham Hall in midtown Manhattan and The Fairmont Hotel atop San Francisco's Nob Hill to reveal for the first time in the U.S. the Brunello di Montalcino 2010, along with their Brunello di Montalcino Rioserva 2009, Rosso di Montalcino 2013, Sant'Antimo and Moscadello di Montalcino. The events, only open to qualified members of the wine trade and the media were at the top of the list for connoisseurs anxious to taste some of Europe's most spectacular wines.

Montalcino is the crown jewel of Tuscany with a Mediterranean climate and complex soil variations that make for exquisite wines. Each area produces wines that are distinct to its micro-climate, hence the bredth of flavor and texture exhibited by each of the wines. Their lush, robust fruit-forward character is balanced by delicate floral notes and subtle hints of herbs, spices, tobacco and chocolate all wrapped around a firm spine of pronounced body and acidity. These are terrific wines with food or enjoyed alone for contemplation or with aged cheeses or a good cigar.

The wines presented at the tastings were as different as the geographic locations of the wineries they came from: from the Mediterranean breezes of coastal estates, to the sunny slopes and sun-drenched hills inland, the wines present a diversity of character that is unique. The production area is bounded by water, rocks and rivers, with mount Amiata protecting the southernmost border from cloudbursts and hailstorms from the atmosphere and its 'sides' washed by the Siena's most important rivers.

Made primarily from Tuscany's indigenous Sangiovese grape, some of the wines tasted were like visiting with old friends; Banfi, Talenti, Bottega and Capanna. Others were revelations.

Among the favorites: Banfi Brunello di Montalcinho DOCG Poggio Alle Mura 2010-$70, a 100% Sangiovese Banfi clonal selection with a limited production of only 40,000 bottles. This wine has distinct flavors of dark red fruit; blackberries, currant and casis with a backnote of cinnamon bark and a hint of tobacco. Likewise Barbi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna del Fiore 2010-$45, a 100% Sangiovese with a total production of only 4,000 bottles, is a rare beauty with complex dark fruit flavors and floral notes that seem to unfuld the longer they sit in the glass. This is a wine to be purchased now, then laid down in a temperature-controlled cellar. Resisting the temptation to drink a bottle or two now with a Prime Aged Steak is a temptation that you should not deprive yourself of.
With prices ranging from $30-$200, the wines represent a real bargain when you consider their quality in comparison to comparable wines from France or the Napa Valley which trump them with price tags double that and more.  Look for the wines of Brunello di Montalcino at your local wine shop. Don't hesitate to dig deep and buy a number of different labels. You'll be both surprised and deeply satisfied with the bounty of treasures to be explored in the glass and on the palate.





 The splendid confines of Gotham Hall New York City
 Il Marroneto-Brunello di Montalcino
 The focused tasting of Brunello di Montalcino
 Zachary Harris of Ika, LLC and The Black Winer.com

 Caparzo Brunello was among the nine wines tasted at the seminar



 Lars Leicht of Cru Artisan wines, the Luxury Selections of the Banfi Portfolio
 Aj Ojeda-Pons, Sommelier, The Lambs Club, New York
 Seema Parthasarathy-Terlato Wines
 Buddy Kenney-Panebianco wines New York
 Silvia Hernandez Pinino wines
 Rick Sasso (l) and Antonio Marchiano of Holland Liquors, Clinton, New Jersey
 The Grand Tasting at Gotham Hall and its participants


 Giovanna Neri of Col di Lamo S.S.
 Karen Sendelbach of New York and Rome

 Mirco Bilioirsi of Caparzo wines
 Amadeo Cencioni of Capanna wines
 Daniela Cester of Bottega wines
 Raffaella Guidi Federzoni pf Fattoria dei Barbi
 Nicole Yetman-Top Hat Food and Wine Consultants
Ibrahim Soifone-Karitta Imports

Max Hernandez of Pinino wines (l) with Pepe Schib of Tenut`a San Giorgio

Monday, January 12, 2015

Wine of the Week-NV (non-wintage) MezzaCorona Teroldego Rotaliano NOS-$15

Everyone knows the wines of Tuscany and are starting to get familiar with wines from nearby Umbria and those of Chianti and Piemonte. Its time to expand your Italian wine knowledge and appreciation to include the magnificent wines of the north, namely those of the Trentino-Alto Adige wine region. Those that know anything about the region at all, normally associate it with a crisp, fruity white wine called Pinot Grigio,  or the exceptional sparkler, called Prosecco,  but few know that the region is also producing some terrific reds at exceptionally reasonable prices. One such wine is Teroldego Rotaliano, which is a racy food-friendly red that is priced at just $15. Go online and you might find it for even less, especially if you order it by the case.

Teroldego Rotaliano is a red wine-specific DOC of the Trentino-Alto Adige wine region, in northern Italy. The wines are made from 100%Teroldego grapes grown on the Campo Rotaliano – a flat, roughly triangular plain of the Adige Valley in northern Trentino.

Teroldego is a dark-skinned variety which produces deeply pigmented wines with an intensely fruity character. It is grown almost nowhere in the world outside the Adige valley, and has become something of an icon for Trentino's wine industry. Although the wines are rarely 'fine' wines, they are soft-styled and need little age to make them palatable. It is hard to see why Teroldego is not more widely planted in the region; it is more flavorful than Schiava (the most common red variety here) and less earthily tannic than Lagrein.

The Campo Rotaliano sits at the junction between the Adige Valley and that of the smaller Noce river, a minor tributary. The communes here are Mezzolombardo, Mezzocorona and the village of Grumo, belonging to the San Michele all'Adige commune.

Fairly unknown outside of Trantino, the Teroldego grape is capable of creating some exceptional wines that combine intense ripe raspberry and blackberry flavors with some mouth-drying tannins and a touch of bitters and smoke that gives it an interesting layered taste. Its really delicious with spicy foods, vegetarian dishes, or ones made with garlic and tomato-based sauces. It can even go with a firm, fleshy fish like turbot, sea bass or sword fish. It certainly goes well with a steak. This is a young wine with a lot of heart and flavor to spare. Flavor wise, its less acidic than Chianti and a bit more rustic than the typical Beaujolais Cru. The price certainly puts it right in the range of affordable wines that are starting to make their way on the wine lists of wine bars and newer, chic ethnic restaurants that are just off the beaten path. Teroldego wines are just starting to appear on American shelves. It wouldn't be a bad idea to give them a fitting welcome by taking a bottle or two home for dinner, or just sipping, lightly chilled,  as an aperitif with your favorite munchies.




Friday, January 9, 2015

14th annual Food Network & Cooking Channel South Beach Wine & Food Festival presented by Food & Wine February 19-22, the best of Miami and the U.S.

South Beach extravaganza presents Best of the Best

Fontainebleau, Miami Beach---Tony Montuano of the iconic  Chicago Gold Coast Italian restaurant Spiaggia was in an ebullient mood as he shaved mounds of fresh white truffles on a hand cut slice of his signature homemade pasta in the Grand Ballroom of Miami Beach's most luxurious resort for Wine Spectator's Best of the Best, one of the marquee events of the 14th  annual Food Network and Cooking Channel South Beach Wine and Food Festival,  presented by Food and Wine, which occurs February 19-22.

Chicago's Rick Bayless, popular television personality, Top Chef Masters winner and chef/owner of Frontera Grill, also in that city's Gold Coast, offered up his signature takes on authentic Mexican cuisine. West Randolph Street's Stephanie Izard of the Girl and the Goat dazzled with her skate wing croquettas, all to be washed down with sparkling wines, still wines and imaginatively mixed spirits that were rated 90 points and above by the Wine Spectator. 

There was no shortage of caviar, which was served in a variety of creations and lobster, most notably the tiny lobster souffles from the Fontainebleau's own kitchens. It was a night of total gastronomic excess that was only outdone by the fabulous setting.

Besides the Fountainebleau Miami Beach Wine Spctator's Best of the Best, his year's festival features a new opening event, an Italian Al Fresco Feast on the Beach hosted by Debi Mazar and Gabriele Corcos, presented by Ronzoni, celebrating its 100th anniversary, sponsored by MIAMI Magazine. Among the most popular events is the annual Amstel Light Burger Bash presented by Schweld and Sons hosted by Rachel Ray, and the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel and Casino Meatopia: The Q Revolution presented by Creekstone Farms hosted by Guy Fieri curated by Josh Ozersky. Marcus Samuelsson of Harlem's Red Rooster and JJ Johnson of Minton's present Harlem Shake at The Forge, Miami Beach, Friday, February 20.
 Chicago chefs Tony Montuano of Spiaggia (above) and Rick Bayless of Frontera Grill (below)
Stephanie Izard of Chicago's Girl and Goat




A classic Chicago Prime Dry Aged Long Bone Rib Eye Steak


Food Network South Beach Wine and Food Festival February 19-22, the best of Miami and the U.S.

South Beach extravaganza presents Best of the Best

Fontainebleau, Miami Beach---Tony Montuano of the iconic  Chicago Gold Coast Italian restaurant Spiaggia was in an ebullient mood as he shaved mounds of fresh white truffles on a hand cut slice of his signature homemade pasta in the Grand Ballroom of Miami Beach's most luxurious resort for Wine Spectator's Best of the Best, one of the marquee events of the annual Food Network South Beach Wine and Food Festival, which occurs once again in its 14th edition, February 19-22.

Chicago's Rick Bayless, popular television personality, Top Chef Masters winner and chef/owner of Frontera Grill, also in that city's Gold Coast, offered up his signature takes on authentic Mexican cuisine. West Randolph Street's Stephanie Izard of the Girl and the Goat dazzled with her skate wing croquettas, all to be washed down with sparkling wines, still wines and imaginatively mixed spirits that were rated 90 points and above by the Wine Spectator. 

There was no shortage of caviar, which was served in a variety of creations and lobster, most notably the tiny lobster souffles from the Fontainebleau's own kitchens. It was a night of total gastronomic excess that was only outdone by the fabulous setting.

Besides the Fountainebleau Miami Beach Wine Spctator's Best of the Best, his year's festival features a new opening event, an Italian Al Fresco Feast on the Beach hosted by Debi Mazar and Gabriele Corcos, presented by Ronzoni, celebrating its 100th anniversary, sponsored by MIAMI Magazine. Among the most popular events is the annual Amstel Light Burger Bash presented by Schweld and Sons hosted by Rachel Ray, and the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel and Casino Meatopia: The Q Revolution presented by Creekstone Farms hosted by Guy Fieri curated by Josh Ozersky. Marcus Samuelsson of Harlem's Red Rooster and JJ Johnson of Minton's present Harlem Shake at The Forge, Miami Beach, Friday, February 20.
 Chicago chefs Tony Montuano of Spiaggia (above) and Rick Bayless of Frontera Grill (below)
Stephanie Izard of Chicago's Girl and Goat




A classic Chicago Prime Dry Aged Long Bone Rib Eye Steak


Sunday, January 4, 2015

Wine of the Week: Chateau Leboscq Medoc Cru Bourgeois 2010-$22

Chateau Leboscq Medoc 2010-a real gem at just over $20

By Dwight Casimere

The Medoc, on Bordeaux's storied Left Bank of the Gironde estuary in France, is one of the prime locations in the world for lush, delicious red wines. Home to more than 1,500 vineyards, the wines from each chateau have their own distinctive character and flavor, owing to the varied and rich terroir of the region.

Situated close to the Atlantic Ocean, the region's mild climate and gravelly, well-drained soils make for grapes with extensive root systems that struggle and ripen to a superior intensity of flavor, in spite of the  area's notoriously heavy rainfall. The results are wines of distinction that have captured the imaginations and the palates of wine lovers everywhere.

Add to the growing list of real gems from the region the name of Chateau Leboscq and its 2010 Medoc Crus Bourgeois. A red Bordeaux blend of the highest calibre, it can be had for a mere average price of around $22. I've seen it in some shops for as low as $17 or $20. Ordering online by the case, will easily lock in the lowest price at any of your well-known wine buying sites.

 Chateau Leboscq is one of the classic estates of the Saint-Estephe appellation. Dating back to the conquest of the Medoc in 1749, when Thomas Barton, founder of one of France's premiere negotiant companys in the Bordeaux, took over the estate and dedicated himself to creating distinguished wines in all of France's myriad classifications. Barton turned the estate over to Jean Grazilhon, the dedicated caretaker of the estate, at the end of the 19th century. Grazilhon created the majestic residence which now overlooks the vineyards and the River Gironde estuary. His meticulous approach to wine making resulted in the estate being awarded Cru Bourgeois status in 1932.

This is an excellent example of what Cru Bourgeois is all about. The wine is very straight forward with the flavor of deep red currants dominating a flavor profile that includes pomegranate,  crushed rose hips, black pepper, light cinnamon and cardamom spice. There are hints of Jamican coffee and maduro tobacco on the back of the throat, however, the taste of ripe red fruit dominates and almost drips from the corners of your mouth. This is a perfect wine to serve with Rack of Lamb, Pheasant or a juicy Pork Tenderloin slathered with a rich, tangy, tomato-based,  barbecue sauce. At only $22 a bottle or less, you can afford to have it often at the dinner table. Present it whenever guests arrive. They'll not only delight in its luxuriant taste, but will be thrilled when you regale them with your knowledge of the wine's backstory and the rich history of the region, which I have so generously provided in this column. Bon Appetit!


 Views of the Chateau Lreboscq estate at harvest time