Super wines for the Super Bowl for under $12

by Dwight The Wine Doctor, Dwight Casimere

With the Pro Bowl and Super Bowl on back-to-back weekends, it’s a good time to think about some fantastic wines at unbelievable prices that come from countries that cheer for a very different kind of football.

Chile and Argentina are two South American countries where the predominant sport is soccer, only there, its known simply as football. Unlike American football where the ball is passed and caught more than it is actually kicked, the ball in soccer is primarily kicked and occasionally, deflected off a player’s head.

But, I digress. Chile and Argentina have been exporting wines to the U.S. for several years now and, thanks to some competitive pricing, they’re starting to make their way into the common vernacular of wine lovers. In countries where outdoor grilling is a part of everyday lifestyle and not just the tailgating associated with game day, their wines make a perfect accompaniment to the beer brats, char-burgers, briskets, po-boys, pizzas, fajitas and guacamole dips that make up popular American football fare.

Ever since the missionaries traveling with the conquistadores brought vine cuttings from the native Spain to the area around one of their first settlements, Santiago, in the mid-sixteenth century, Chile has been producing some spectacular, affordable wines. With a climate very close to the Mediterranean homeland, a fertile, dark volcanic soil, the first wines exported to the homeland began to quickly outclass the local stash. Spain began imposing heavy restrictions and high taxes on their colonial cousins, eventually leading to a revolt against the Spanish monarchy.

Again, I digress. Here are my picks from the best of Chile’s vast array of wines for your Pro Bowl or Super Bowl buffet. Maybe Brett Favre will show up. He has nothing else to do!

Concha y Toro is the leading exporter of wines from Chile. Their wines can be found in most stores and wine shops. The wines are excellent and the prices, across all their varietals, are reasonable. The winery has also invested heavily in expansion and created new wineries in both Chile and Argentina. Their expansion and diversification has resulted in the creation of such labels as Cono Sur, now a familiar staple at a number of bars and restaurants that feature South American food. I was in New York recently and saw Cono Sur on wine lists and at stores everywhere.

Cono Sur Riesling (Stelvin) Bicycle Series 2008 ($7.32) is the latest release from the protean producer. Its in bargain stores everywhere. This is a varietal normally associated with Germany or South Africa, but Chile and Cono Sur in particular, does a spectacular job with the Riesling grape. Its got nice fruit and is a little on the dry side so it will go well with any kind of pork dish. Its great to drink while passing the guacamole dip or diving into the Nachos.

Cono Sur Vision Pinot Noir 2008 ($11.99) moves you right into the serious stuff coming off the grill. Ribs, spicy rubbed chicken, Buffalo Wings and my personal version of Mike Ditka’s Pork Chop (I rub mine in a blend of Hot Paprika, Powdered Garlic and Cajun spices that I bought at the French Market in New Orleans, but you can experiment with your own blend. I also do a mean smoked duck that goes perfectly with this one).

Concha y Toro Xplorador Cabernet Sauvignon ($7.99) moves us right into the end zone with its flavors of rich berries and toasty oak. Bring out the chili, the smoked brisket and the blackened steak. The rub I brought back from The Gumbo Shop in the French Quarter is just the thing for marinating and cooking steaks. Tony Cachares and Zatarain’s are two authentic New Orleans spice blends are available in most stores as are Paul Proudhomme’s Spice Magic or Emeril’s blends. You can add your own ‘magic’ touches to give it your personal stamp. Trust me, this wine is a big one and can stand up to even a healthy dousing of Crystal hot sauce!

Odyssea Pinot Grigio 2009 Mendoza , Argentina $10 French winemaker Olivier Ruhard came to Mendoza, originally to work for Jaques Lourton, making great wine for Escorihuela. His touch is apparent in this delicate wine from Odyssea. Great with spicy foods like Gumbo or Buffalo wings or right at home with shrimp or crab, it has bright tropical fruit, hints of citrus and subtle back notes of cinnamon and green apple. Have it while you’re passing around the appetizers and listen to the rave reviews from your guests. You won’t find a more nuanced wine at this price!

Cucao PX 2008 Pedro Ximenez Elqui Valley Chile $11.99 I’m drinking this beauty even as I write this review. It comes with a screw cap, but don’t let that be a turnoff. There’s gold inside to go with its beautiful gold color! The Pedro Ximenex grape is a wild grape grown in the deserts of Chile in a region known as the Elqui Valley. It’s a hearty grape with big, juicy flavors. From the moment you open the bottle, you’re hit with the smell and the taste of fresh pineapple. Lemon-lime, almonds and honey dance on the tongue as you cram down oysters, crab and shrimp po’ boys. I’ve got a great recipe for shrimp and tilapia ceviche with diced mango, pineapple and jalapenos that would go perfectly with this one. There’s a touch of pear and fresh herbs on the back of the throat that makes it go down easy.

Pascual Brut NV ($11.84) from the Mendoza growing region of Argentina is an absolute last-second winning field goal. The wine has a bright Champagne-like appearance with green and yellow undertones. The blend of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc gives it a soft, gentle taste that makes it easy to drink. The ladies will love this one and if someone forgets the Coronas, it’ll make a nice substitute beverage for beer lovers that will carry them from kickoff to the final play.

CELEBRATING THE GOOD LIFE IN CARMEL VALLEY

Robert Talbott wines of Carmel Valley-a legendary artisan plies his craft

by Dwight Casimere

For a clothes horse such as myself, a trip to Robert Talbott’s legendary tie and clothing shop in Carmel, California is like a Haj or pilgrimage to Mecca. His handcrafted ties, originally sewn by his wife, Audrey, in 1958, when she directed the opening of his original shop and factory, has grown into an international brand that stands for the very pinnacle of quality and originality.

In 1982, the Talbotts turned that same creativity and pursuit of excellence to the planting of premium grapes in Monterey County’s grand cru sites: Diamond T Estate on an idyllic hilltop above Carmel Valley, and the legendary Sleepy Hollow vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands.

Dan Karlsen, Talbott’s esteemed winemaker, with over 30 year’s experience, has guided the state-of-the-art winery to the highest accolades imaginable; a perfect 100 point rating from Wine Spectator Magazine for his 1997 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay and at the Wine Spectator's 2009 New York Wine Experience Grand Tastings, last October, Talbott’s Diamond T Estate Chardonnay Cuvée Audrey 2005, was rated 91 points.

Talbott’s Chardonnays are derived from Corton-Charlemagne clones that are grown in Diamond T’s virtually soil-free chalky shale, reminiscent of the Burgundian wines that the Talbott’s became enamored of in numerous trips to France.

A visit to Talbott’s tasting room in an unassuming, rustic building, tucked away on a narrow, winding street off Carmel Valley Road, completely belies the royal pedigree of his wines. Winemaker Karlsen, sporting a weatherworn wide-brimmed field hat and dust-covered boots, greets tasters with a hearty handshake and a generous pour of his latest release, 2008 Logan Sleepy Hollow Pinot Noir. Karlsen is an expert at creating beautiful, lush Pinot Noirs and this wine is one of the best representatives of the varietal, now on the market at a nominal $28. You can pay a lot more for Pinot Noir that has none of its fruit-forward character or elegant structure.

Talbott 2006 Cuvee Carlotta Chardonnay is one of the defining wines of the new releases. Now in its third vintage, the wine displays a unique complexity derived from its barrel-select status. One of two tete de cuvee Chardonnays in Talbott’s portfolio, Carlotta is a benchmark wine made from world-class fruit. It is value priced at about $54. Rounding out the new releases is 2007 Diamond T Chardonnay, at a surprising $44 a bottle. The 2006 earned a well-deserved 92-point rating from Wine Enthusiast and the 2007 is even better! I have quite a collection of Robert Talbott ties in my wardrobe. After my visit to Carmel Valley, you can count on my adding a number of Robert Talbott wines to my cellar.

Organic Wine meets art on the Carmel Valley Road

by Dwight Casimere

“Magical Wines That Dance On Your Palate” is the motto that graces the label of every wine that comes out of Heller Estate Organic Vineyards in the Carmel Valley of the Monterey wine growing region in California. Besides being a multiple Gold Medal winner for its organic wines that include Dancer’s Meritage, Estate Merlot, a screamin’ Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, the winery is distinguished by its sculpture garden, containing the works of internationally acclaimed artist Toby Heller, who, along with husband Gilbert, are the owners of Heller Estate.

Besides being USDA Organic Certified, the winery scored medals in every category at the First International Green Wine Competition in Santa Rosa, California in 2008 and was selected in the Top 5 U.S. Chardonnays by The Wall Street Journal in June 2009.

Heller Estate is the leader in organic wine-grape farming in Monterey County. The winery has eliminated the use of fossil fuels in their farming practices and has adopted the use of 100% plant-based biodiesel.

The tasting room at the mouth of the rustic Carmel Village, nestled at the base of the mountains that encircle the Carmel Valley off Carmel Valley Road, provides a tranquil setting for sampling the great wines, along with the many handmade, gourmet delicacies available in the tasting room.

Both Gilbert and Toby Heller were on hand, along with winemaker Rich Tanguay, for an exclusive tasting of their new releases.

Tasting Heller Estate wines quickly dispels the myth that organic wines lack character. These wines are big and bright, with intense fruit and a pleasant finish that puts a smile on your face.

The first California wine I ever had was a Chenin Blanc from Wente when I first moved to San Francisco in the mid ‘70s. I’ll never forget it. I had just sat with the legendary Lawrence Ferlinghetti, San Francisco’s poet laureate, now 90 years old, at his famed City Lights Book store, where he reminisced about the days of the Dharma Bums of the Beat Generation, immortalized by his best friend, Jack Kerouac. I walked across the street to the North Beach Restaurant and was introduced to that local culinary delight Cioppino, a hearty Sicilian shellfish stew redolent with local crab, shrimp, clams, scallops and mussels in a garlicky, tomato sauce. The wine was a Chenin Blanc from Wente Family Estates. It was a crisp, fruity accompaniment to the briny shellfish with enough acid to stand up against the somewhat astringent tomato sauce. I’ll never forget that meal. Stepping into the fog-tinged evening and walking up the winding cobblestone street to my flat on Coit Tower, I was lost in the magic of the moment.

Fast forward to the Heller Estate tasting room in Carmel Valley where winemaker Rich Tanguay pours a copious glass of crisp, 2007 Chenin Blanc. The wine sells in the $20-$25 range and has a composition of 89% Chenin Blanc and 11% Johannesburg Riesling. The wine presents itself with bright green apples in the mouth and a luscious, lingering finish. I had forgotten what a treat Chining Blanc is. With the culinary switch now to Asian fusion, Thai and ‘new wave’ Latin cuisine, this old flame is now reemerging as a hot, new romance!

I moved on to the 2007 Chardonnay and would have bought a bottle (at a reasonable $24, $20 for wine club members and ‘special guests’, hint, hint!) and hidden in a corner of the sculpture garden with it, if I hadn’t run into the artist, Toby Heller. She gave me a personal tour of the garden and explained her beautiful art work to me as we sipped this pleasant, light wine. Heller Chardonnay has a lovely, smooth mouth feel and a delightfully crisp, citrus flavor and a clean finish. It’s just the wine to have while strolling through the garden. Its flavor seemed to be enhanced while viewing art.

Heller’s 2004 Estate Merlot ($35) and Cabernet ($38) are excellent standard-bearers for their respective varieties. The Merlot is big and fruity with under ‘currants’ (get the pun?) of blackberry, dark chocolate and cedar. The undertones of lavender and rosemary give one a real feeling for the ‘terroir’ from which it is derived. It’s like taking a walk through the vineyards. The Cabernet is all toasty oak, black fruit and savory herbs with a backbeat of vanilla. This is the one to have if someone snags a local pheasant or if you decide to blow your Christmas bonus on a couple of pounds of prime, aged, grass-fed Filet Mignon. This one took a Silver Medal at the 2009 San Francisco International Wine Competition. I can see how Harvey Steiman and the rest of his tasting panel decided to heap the accolade on this one.

Heller Estate is just one of the many pleasures to be found along the Carmel Valley Road. I heard quite a few stories from people who say they came here for a visit and never left. A few of them even became winemakers. More on that another time!

Scenes from the 13th Annual Monterey Great Wine Escape Weekend

13th Annual Monterey Great Wine Escape Weekend-Lunch with the “Kings” of Pinot Noir

by Dwight Casimere

Carmel Valley, Arroyo Seco, Santa Lucia Highlands, Chalone and the Monterey American Viticultural Areas of California are the prized Pinot Noir Terroirs of Monterey County.

The Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association presented a Literary & Agricultural Tour of Steinbeck’s Wine Country hosted by Ag Venture Tours owner Evan Oakes with transportation provided by CCM&E Destination Services.

The highlight of the day was a lunch hosted by Andy Boy Executive VP of Sales and Marketing, Margaret D’Arrigo-Martin at the produce producers elegant headquarters in Spreckles, California, in the heart of Monterey’s agricultural belt.

The focal point of the day was a luncheon featuring the local “Kings” of Pinot Noir. Karl Wente, Fifth Generation Winemaker; Wente Family Estates, gave the keynote, followed by a luncheon by Chef Todd Fischer that showcased the exceptional local produce of the region paired with the wines of Tames Estates and their 2008 Pinot Grigio with a Caesar Salad made with Andy Boy Romaine Hearts, their most popular national export, Nth Degree 2007 Pinot Noir with Colored Cauliflower Enchiladas, Wente 2006 Small Lot Syrah (my personal favorite) paired with Broccoli Rabe & Carne Asada Tacos, Wente 2008 Riverbank Riesling with Prickly Pear Sorbet and, a special treat, Prickly Pear Lemonade.

The luncheon was preceded by a tour of Andy Boy’s expansive farms featuring thousands of acres of strawberries, broccoli rabe, romaine and a special stop at the Prickly Pear fields. Prickly Pear is a favorite with Hispanic households, but it is quickly garnering local acceptance on dining tables across the cultural spectrum in increasing numbers due to its uniqueness and versatility.

Monterey County is the nation’s leading producer and exporter of Leaf Lettuce, Strawberries, Iceberg Lettuce, Spinach, Celery, Broccoli, Grapes and almost every other category of fruit and vegetable to be found in supermarkets around the country. The area is also the producer of more than 18 thousand acres of Organic crops valued at nearly $200 million and is a pioneer in the commercial development of the organic produce industry.

The luncheon was a perfect ending to a day that began with a tour of Castle Rock State Park with its distinctive and commanding mountain-top natural rock formation, which resembles a Spanish Castle and a tour of the Salinas Valley where local celebrity author John Steinbeck toiled in the fields while writing some of his seminal works, all based on his real life experience, including East of Eden and Of Mice and Men. If he was also drinking local Pinot Noir, it’s easy to see how he became so inspired!

Monterey Bay Aquarium and Estania Wines- pairing of two landmarks

by Dwight Casimere

Monterey Bay Aquarium is one of the landmark attractions of the 
Monterey Peninsula, which sits as a commanding presence at the foot of historic Cannery Row. Likewise, Estancia (Spanish for ‘estate’) is one of the premiere wineries of the Monterey Peninsula, capturing the essence of this rich and agriculturally diverse region. Estancia’s General Manager and Director of Winemaking, Scott Kelley, teamed with the Aquarium’s Portola Restaurant Executive Chef, David Anderson, to create an unforgettable wine tasting dinner in the Aquarium’s Kelp Forest.

A walk-around tasting afforded sampling of the Estancia’s award-winning wines, including Estancia Reserve Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meritage and Riesling, which were later paired with Chef Anderson’s creations. About a hundred gourmands who attended the dinner, which was the premiere opening night event to the 13^th Annual Great Wine Escape Weekend sponsored by the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association in conjunction with Wine Enthusiast Magazine, had an opportunity stroll the galleries and exhibits of the Aquarium while tasting Estancia’s exquisite wines.

More than 30,000 sea animals were on display with tasting tables interspersed among the galleries. Guests drank Estancia Pinot Grigio ($15) as they were served passed hors d’oveuvres of crab cakes, seared scallops and tuna tartar. Passing by the bat ray ‘petting pool’, one of the little critters must have figured something was up, because he surfaced from the water as he approached me, perhaps hoping to snag a tidbit of Chef Anderson’s tasty fare!

At another aquatic gallery, a giant octopus turned a deep coral/crimson color as it scurried from one end to the other, displaying its massive tentacles. “Its really unusual for her to come out like that before a crowd,” a nearby aquarium staff member told me, as guests flashed their cell phone and digital cameras at the fantastic display.

After that exhaustive photo session, it was time to refresh! Estancia’s superb Pinot Grigio, with its pale golden straw color, aromas of Golden Delicious apples and jasmine and distinct flavors of melon and citrus was the perfect refuge. It also provided an excellent accompaniment to the menu sampling.

Estancia’s General Manager Wine Director Scott Kelley was the gracious host, introducing the wines as they were poured, including Estancia Reserve 2007 Chardonnay(around $20, if you can find it!) paired with Spanish almond soup, wild Oregon pink shrimp, garlic chips and Carmel Valley olive oil.

“Chef Anderson and I thought it would be a good idea to use this dinner to not only showcase the wine, but to highlight the terrific produce, farm products and other regional delicacies like our olive oil and, of course, the bounty from the sea around us,” Kelley said.

Estancia’s marvelous Reserve 2007 Pinot Noir ($32) paired perfectly with the farmed arctic char blanquette crepe with pinot noir gastrique and gremolata as we dined under the watchful eye of a shark, swimming in concentric circles around the towering glass tank. Schools of fish huddled above as if seeking refuge near the surface. They looked like a shimmering blanket of stars above the sinister waters below.

Braised beef short rib with red wine risotto was the entrée’ and centerpiece of the evening. It was paired with Estancia Reserve 2006 Meritage ($29.99) from the famed Paso Robles region.“This is our pride and joy,” Kelley said, his chest swelling.

“We’ve also been making premium Pinot Noir long before the movie ‘Sideways.’ Its nice to know that the public is finally realizing what we’ve known at the winery and in this region all along. It’s a wine presented in a true Burgundian style with deep garnet color and ripe berries and a creamy mouth feel and long, smooth finish. The wine is aged in new French oak, but not so much that you feel like you’re chewing on it. We went for a lighter style that would pair well with a meal.”

From the taste of things, he was spot on!

All of the flavor ‘sign posts’ were in place, pointing toward a great wine drinking experience. The lingering taste of black cherries and the hint of vanilla confirmed the wine’s pedigree.

A rustic fig-almond tart with cinnamon, crème fraiche, caramel sauce and brandied cranberries heralded a return tasting of Estancia’s 2008 Riesling (a steal at $15). It rounded out a spectacular evening. Normally, I’m not a big Riesling fan. I used to enjoy German Kabinett Riesling’s when I was a young, upstart NBC news writer living at Carl Sandburg Village in what was then, Chicago’s swinging Rush Street area. I liked crisp, slightly sweet white wines then and I served them with almost everything, from an appetizer of Shrimp De Johnge (a Chicago mainstay) to Steak Diane (another Old School dining favorite) and Cherries Jubillee (am I dating myself?) It was nice to see how Kelley presented the idea of a similar semi-dry wine that preserved the essential sweetness of the fruit without sacrificing the integrity of the wine. It made for a well-rounded taste experience.

Estancia’s wines are exceptional in both character and taste. They are also an exceptional value. They can be found at almost any wine shop or supermarket where wine is sold and the price is surprisingly affordable. You could easily serve these wines decanted to some of your wine snob friends and they’ll swear that you are pouring them some of the more expensive French stuff.