Monday, March 21, 2016

SPANISH WINE'S GRANDES PAGOS: CAN RAFOLS DEL CAUS IS THE CANVAS FOR THE WINEMAKING ART OF CARLOS ESTEVA





CAN RAFOLS WINERY OF CATALONIA, SPAIN A LEADER IN BIODYNAMIC WINE

Story and photos by Dwight Casimere

 The stone entrance to the new Can Rafols winery, built entirely underground

The spectacular wines of Can Rafols

Can Rafols owner and winemaker Carlos Esteva

SPECTACULAR WINERY BUILT IN A HUGE CALCERIOUS ROCK USES GRAVITY, NATURE AND UNIQUE MICROCLIMATES TO MAKE DARING AND AWARD WINNING WINE

Story and photo gallery by Dwight Casimere

CATALONIA, Spain--Carlos Esteva is the owner and winemaker of one of the most  innovative wineries in this rich, fertile subzone of Garraf in the Penedes near Barcelona. Just a 45 minute drive from the heart of Barcelona lies one of the most amazing winery tour experiences which gives an intimate and personal view of the winemaking process using both old traditions and new technologies.

The winery uses both organic and biodynamic practices to the nth degree to produce its innovative wines, which are all hand-harvested, aged in both oak barrels and in the bottle for extended periods, and then aged in cavernous aging cellars that are carved out of the side of a calcereous rock mountain that is lined with art work.  It is a unique environment for winemaking and the resulting wines are equally distinctive and noteworthy.

Employing both international and local varieties, the wines display a character that bear the mark of both the winery's terroir, that unique combination of soil, climate and natural environment, but bear the unique signature of the winemaker. Esteva was perhaps the first winemaker in the area to begin training his vines using a trellis method. He was also among the first to use carefully developed clones, such as the Incrocio Manzoni, a cross-breed of Pinot Blanc and Riesling develooped by Professor Luigi Manzoni at the famed oenology institute at Conegliano in the Veneto region of Italy.Cabernet Ranc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc are developed form old vines from 15 to 70 years old as well as grapes native to Spain such as  Macabeo and Parellada.
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Dwight Casimere withe Carlos Esteva at the winery in Catalonia

Can Rafols winery Artist-In-Residence Kiko Ruiz of Abstraccio Biomorfica and (below) the murals that will dominate the walls of the underground winery and aging cellars


THE UNDERGROUND WINERY AT CAN RAFOLS

The winery is built completely underground in natural rock. It is an amazing feat of modern construction. The concept behind  the winery is a stroke of genius put into action. It combines old traditions with modern technologies, making use of natural gravity and the unique properties of the complex rock formations and soil compositions that line the walls of the fermentation rooms and aging cellars. The walls of the winery will be lined with artwork, created by Abstraccio Biomorfica Artist-In-Residence Kiko Ruiz, whose artwork graces the main house of the winery, along with ancient tiles, scuptures, friezes and artifacts.  Can rafols lifts Eco Tourism to new heights, combining the spectacular views of the topography of the winery with fine dining and tapas using locally grown organic produce and meats with expertly paired with their astronomical wines.

The futuristic entrance to Can Rafols underground winery and (below) the spectacular vista from the tasting rooms and vernada
 The spectacular modern art within the winery




 An ancient stove from the 1800s provided a logo for one of the wines
The romantic view of the vineyards from the tasting room
 The "James Bond" entrance to the underground winery and aging cellars with its mobile concrete door
 The fossilized rocks that line the walls of the underground winery
 The futuristic stone entrance to the winery and tasting rooms
 The vineyards are planted in calcarious soil embedded  with limestone


 Our hostess, Rosa Aguado, Directora General Can Rafols dels Caus


The original carved wood door to Can Rafols main house and tasting room circa 1864


THE WINES OF CAN RAFOLS

Xarel-lo white wine 2008- $18
Varel-lo Pairal- $18

                                                   
La Calma - $29-notice the fossilized sea shell in the limstone soil. The region was underwater in prehistoric times






Bull manure and bulls horns are used to fertilize and enrich the soil in the vineyards












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