Taste Vibrant Willm Cremant d'Alsace Blanc de Blancs from the Alsace-$16

WINE OF THE WEEK-WILLM CREMANT D'ALSACE BLANC DE BLANCS-$16

Great sparkling wines don't only come from Champagne and they are not just for special occassions. They can be found in regions around the world and can be enjoyed all year long. One companion to carry with you into the New Year is vibrant Cremant  from the Alsace. 

A shining example of this easy-to-drink and affordable sparkling wine is Willm Cremant d'Alsace Blanc de Blancs.  It is a vivacious sparkling wine that is good just by itself, with tantalizing appetizers, or  with a light meal. The best part is that it only costs $16.

Alsace is one of the oldest wine producing regions in France. At one time,  Its wines ranked among the country's most expensive. However, wars, economic upheavals and legal entanglements due to archaic laws plummeted the Alsatian wine industry to the depths. It wasn't until after World War I that things started to turn around. Unfortunately, Prohibition in this country derailed the region's popularity here and caused its wines to become  virtually non-existent on U.S. shelves. 

A twist of fate later turned a severe deficit into an asset. Before 1900, Alsace was a part of the German Empire. Some Champagne winemakers like Hommel and Drier moved to the Alsace in order to skirt strict customs laws toward exporting sparkling wine into Germany. After World War I, when Alsace was returned to France, the region had already become famous for its excellent, relatively inexpensive sparkling wines. Thus, a new industry was born and the thirst for Alsace's excellent sparkling wines quickly spread around the world.  Forbidden to use the term "champagne," the obsolete term "cremant" was resurrected in 1975, and thus, Cremant was born. In 1976, Cremant d'Alsace was officially defined by decree.

Emile Willm has been making wine since 1896 in Barr, just south of Strsbourg. Known for producing some of the greatest Gewurztraminers in the world, the estate was the first to import wine from Alsace to the United States when Prohibition was lifted in the 1930s. 

Already known for its superior red and white wines, consumer attention quickly turned to Willm's vibrant sparkling wine made from 100% Pinot Blanc grapes. Made using the "methode traditionalle," in which the wine undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle, followed by a year of maturation, the wine had a flavor profile much like its more famous cousin, champagne. The result is a lean, lively sparkling wine that flows easily on the palate with flavors of bright lemon zest, a hint of creamy white pear juice and a touch of white flowers and orange blossoms on the nose. Paired with light cheeses, and assorted sushi, it is a perfect appetizer.  Seared scallops, skate or Dover Sole sauteed in brown butter and lemon or a delightful dish of clams linguine with a drizzle of lemon butter sauce gives Willm Cremant d'Alsace Blanc de Blancs an opportunity to shine as a dinner companion. Save a bit for enjoying with dessert, such as classic Creme Brulee' or a scoop of lemon sorbet with assorted cookies left over from the Holidays. Bon Apetit! 

 Scenes from the Alsace

Wine of the Week: Cambria Pinot Noir 2012-Julia's Vineyard-$25

Cambria Pinot Noir 2012-Julia's Vineyard- Santa Maria Valley-$25
Perfect Pinot Noir that goes with everything on the Holiday Table

By Dwight Casimere

Santa Barbara, CA--Santa Maria Valley is fast becoming recognized as the Santa Barbara Valley's prime growing region for premium pinot noir grapes. There's no more shining example than Cambria Pinot Noir 2012 from Julia's Vineyard, a steal at $25. It's a good value that's even better than pinots charging double the price.

This Kendall-Jackson property is located along the Santa Maria Valley Wine Trail and is ideally situated on 1,400 acres on benchland located between the Sierra Madre Mountains and the Sisquoc River, just 17 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean at an elevation of 400-800 feet above sea level. The long growing season created by the cool climate and well-moderated maritime influences results in wines of great intensity and complexity. Their popularity has largely fueled the rise of Santa Maria Valley wines.

Named after one of owner Barbara Banke's and her now-deceased husband, Jess Jackson's two daughters,  Julia's Vineyard is one of three which supply 90% of the grapes to the winery. The attractive mix of clonal diversity has created a Pinot Noir that has become the standardpbearer for Central Coast Pinot Noir.

The blend of eight different clones is anchored by one of the oldest commercial plantings of Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara County, dating back to 1974. Until recently, the wine was only sold primarily in the tasting room at the winery and to wine club members. Fortunately, this year's release has found its way to the general market place and is available at a wine shop near you. Whole Foods, in particular, has a ready availability at its stores nationwide. It's already garnering praise as "the best Pinot Noir at this price ($25) on the market."

Winemaker Denis Shurtleff, a graduate of Cal Poly San Luis Obsiopo, formerly of Corbett Canyon winery, has been creating this wine since her appointment in 2002. This is a shining example of her work.

The wine is deep purple in color and very complex. It has flavors of ripe, red fruit and dark berry aromas and flavors that cascade on the tongue. Seven months aging in 100% French Oak barrels gives it a rich complexity and well-balanced tanins that give the wine a long finish. Alcohol content of nearly 14% gives the wine a firm spine and terrific cellar aging potential (2015-2017)

. But whose kidding whom, with this much flavor, it won't make it any further than the Christmas dinner table where its a perfect accompaniment to sage and rosemary scented turkey, honey and clove-covered ham, tradtional sage dressing and the companion cranberry sauce and yams covered with cinnamon and nutmeg baking spices. It also pairs nicely with rack of lamb, encrusted with garlic and rosemary or a Prime Age Steak smothered in black, pink and white peppercorns in a sauce made with Shitake or Morel mushrooms. Save a little for dessert, because this rich Pinot Noir is great with chocolate!

Below: Two stunning views of the Santa Maria Valley

Highberry Sauvignon Blanc=$18: A South African Newcomer Belongs on the Holiday Table

By Dwight Casimere

South Africa has been making great inroads in the American wine coinsumer market. Two factors are at play: the wines are superb, with a juicy, fruit-forward taste profile and the wines are highly affordable, usually weighing in at well under $20. 

For those not in the know, South Africa is home to one of the most ecologically diverse regions on the planet. The Cape area, which is where most of the countries vineyards are located, is also the site of the Cape Floral Kingdom, famous for having more species of plants than anywhere else in the world. Strictly protected under the world's most stringent conservation laws, 70% of the plant varietals in South Africa are only found within its borders. Suffice to say that sustainable farming practices are the rule for preserving this fragile biodiversity. Vineyard practices are no exception. Stellenbosch is South Africa's best-know wine region. A wide variety of wines are made there, totaling more than 20% of the country's total wine production. With its proximity to Capetown, it is the Cape's most famous wine district because of its high mountainous, granite soil and the cooling breezes of False Bay. 

South African wines were virtually non-existent on American shelves due to the trade sanctions against the country during apartheid. With the end of apatheid in 1993/94, the wine industry experienced a renaissance, with dramatically increased production and foreign investment. Rapidly increasing foreign demand for South African wine and the adoption of modern production technologies have brought hundreds of label into production resulting in a real benefit to consumers. There are a myriad of excellent South African wines available at really fantastic prices.

Among the newly created wineries in the Stellenbosch region is Highberry, the creation of financial investment guru Andre Parker, who has purchased a substantial portion of the celebrated Mount Rozier estate in Stellenbosch.  Mouont Rozier has some of the finest soil in the Schaapenberg terroir of the Western Cape. Rich in minerals, it combines the best elements of the region. The winery's proximity to the coast and its south-facing vineyards makes for the "perfect storm" of factors to create quality grapes and premium wines.

Highberry Sauvignon Blanc 2012 from Stellenbosch is the newest entry to the United States in the growing number of South African labels to be found on the shelves of discriminating wine shops. Selling ar around $14, the wine is perfectly suited to the Holiday Table and beyond. With a fruit-forward flavor of bright citrus; Meyer lemon, a hint of ripe, white peaches and a touch of tropical fruit, mango and pineapple come to mind, this is the perfect accompaniment to turkey or pineapple-glazed ham. The wine, with its slight hint of minerality, derived from the shale soil and tinges of sea air, from its location at the confluence of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans, has a sturdy spine that allows it to stand up to a variety of dishes. Served well-chilled, this is a wine that can carry through from a before-dinner aperitic, right through the main course and even a dessert of peach cobbler, lemon crunch pound cake or lemon meringue pie. It makles my mouth water just thinking about it!

Highberry Sauvignon Blanc is new to the U.S., so you might have to ask your local wine merchant to order it, if it is not readily available on the shelf. At just  about $18 a bottle, it's worth ordering a case or two. Have a few with friends over the Holidays and save a few for next Easter.

Views of the Stellenbosch wine region

The Wines of Carignano Del Sulcis, Ancient Vines Give Food-Friendly Wines

Sardinia wines pair with a variety of recipes as demonstrated by Eataly's chefs

Relative newcomers to the U.S. wine scene are the wines of Carignano del Sulcis, from the island of Sardinia in Italy. Sulcis is an area in southwestern Sardinia, an island best known for its spectacular beaches, moreso than its wine. Yet, within that breathtaking landscape, swept by wind and sand, lie the hearty, ancient vines from which grow the Carignano grape, which has its roots in antiquity. Thought to have been originated in Carinena, Aragon, this red wine grape is widely planted through France and Spain. At its inception, it was transplanted to Sardinia, Algeria, and much of the New World, where it quickly gained acceptance. In the mid-twentieth century, it was the driving force in jug wine production in California's Central Valley and figured prominently in the French Algerian War. Upon Algeria's independence in 1962, the French were cut off from their supply of Carignan wine and growers in Southern France were forcerd to plant their own vines for wine production. At its high point in 1988, Carignan was France's most widely planted grape variety.

Forged by Sardinia's relentless winds and cosseted by the islands' sandy soils, the Carignano grapes are cultivated through the use of the ancient "alberrllo latino," or Latin vine training system, which allow the vines, many of which are 65-70 years old, to thrive in the extreme climatic conditions of the territory. As a result of the rigors of the growing environment, the grapes accumulate an abundance of  sugars and secondary compounds that stimulate  tannins that give the grapes and the resulting wines a striking smoothness and complexity of flavor.

Tom Hyland, Italian wine enthusiast and author of the book "Beyond Barolo and Brunello: Italy's Most Distinctive Wines," presented an authoritative luncheon and seminar, showcasing five wines from the region, with two  winemakers from the Consorzio Carignano Del Sulcis, Marco Sartarelli of Santidi and Dino Dini of Sardus Pater,  present to assist in the presentation. The culinary team at Eataly's Baffo restaurant prepared a stunning menu that shed new light on the expansive pairing possibilities of these highly versatile red wines. Most retail in the $35-$45 range-a bit on the high end, but considering their food-friendly character and exotic beauty, they are well worth the price and will guarantee much lively conversation at the celebratory table.

Salumi Misti, a selection of house cured hams and pepper encrusted mortadella provided the first course along with a rather light, uncomplicated wine, Calasetta Tupei 2011. Made from 100 per cent Carignano grapes from the Island of Sant'Antioco, the wine is an intense garnet color with flavor to match. At once intense, and ethereal, it has warm notes of the Mediterranean breezes that nurtured it. There are hints of vanilla and an aftertaste of bright, red pomegranate juice that drips from the corners of your mouth and a touch of wild, black raspberries and a whiff of cardamom and allspice, from 6 months of aging in durmast barriques. This is an exotic beauty that, unfortunately, has yet to reach our shores. But, be on the lookout for its presence soon. It will be sure to excite your palate.

Mesa, Buio Buio 2010 ($45), pronounced Boo-yo, Boo-yo, is guaranteed to get the gourmet party started. With its simplistic, but distinctive label, which emulates the patterns of ancient Mediterranean rugs, the wine is dark and intense, A product of sand, clay and sub-alkaline rocky soils, this medium-bodied wine has a lush texture and beautiful balance. Hints of red berry and crushed violet blossoms mingle with balsamic vinegar and just an aftertaste of Mediterranean sea salt and garam marsala spices that lend a distinctive aftertaste on the palate. Farfalle (blow tie) pasta, combined with Rock Shrimp, set off with chili flakes and salty pancetta (Italian bacon) and tomato were the perfect accompaniments. All of the wines seemed to have a salty undercurrent to them, so dishes seasoned with ham or utilizing some type of seafood or tomatoes, which are inherently salted, all seemed to work best with the wines.

The third course, handmade pappardelle (free form wide, flat noodles) with a traditional meat sauce (ragu') from Bologna, was the logical companion for AgiPunica, Barrua 2011 ($35), an elegant, sophisticated wine made with 85 per cent Carignano and 15 per cent other varities for smoothness and balance. The typical brown soils, consisting of sand mixed with clay and limestone, give the wine its complex character, structure and body. Heavily laden with ripe, red fruit, its flavor can almost be discerned from its intense ruby-red color. There are layers of spices and fragrant herbs, such as sage or rosemary. There's even a hint of capers, which are also indigenous to the region.  This wine puts you in mind of the Holidays, because it surely captures the aromatic essence of frankincense and myrrh, the Original Gifts of Christmas. This is a wine that should be served a little bit chilled to gain its full expression. It's a big wine, with 14.5% alchohol content and a persistent flavor of red fruit and pepper that manages an harmonious finish in spite of its strength. Red meat and red sauces are best with this rich, red Mediterranean beauty.

"As you can see by my photographs, the vines of the Carignano grape are like no others," Hyland explained in his exceptional presentation. "These vines are all on the average of 70 years old, but, as you can see, the grapes seem to thrive in the stress of the high winds of well-drained soil. The fact that there's such intense sun during the day, combined with the cool winds and dense morning fog, lend the grapes their complex sugars and refined tannins."

Sardus Pater, Is Arenas 2009 ($45) was the centerpiece, with a show-stopping presentation of grilled lamb chops, presented on the long bone, covered in a balsamic glaze with an underpinning of eggplant and sprinkled all over with pine nuts, which further enhanced the salty undertone of the wine. This was a spectacular presentation, with flavor to match. It set the wine off as winemaker Dino Dini described the mistral winds of Sardinia. "The strong winds are as much a part of the wine as is the soil," he emphasized.

A final course of various local cheeses, marmalade and toasted almonds accompanied Santadi, Terre Brune Carignano Del Sulcis Superiore DOC 2010($55), gave free rein to this full-bodied wine. Grown from Old vines and made with 95% Carignano and 5% Bovaleddu, another local grape, this is a deep, ruby red wine with hints of garnet on the rim, an indicator of its high alcohol content. Complex flavors of deep purple, ripe plums, blueberries and hints of juniper and a handful of cinnamon bark and freshly shaved nutmeg dominate the nose and palate. There's also a distinct finish of dark chocolate and tobacco that makes one think of the library of a men's club with deep, red leather chairs trimmed with brass hobnails. Intense, yet elegant, this wine was aged 16-18 months in new, fine-grained French oak barrels. It is extremely cellar worthy and can age another 7-8 years. At 15% alcohol, the flavor is long-lasting and pleasant. this is a perfect way to end an evening. This wine almost doesn't need any accompaniment. It's a terrific meditation wine, best enjoyed by a roaring fire.

Vineyard photos courtesy Tom Hyland (c)

The Carignano grape in its natural habitat of sandy, rocky soil under intense sun

A modern production facility in the Carignano Del Sulcis

The wines of the Carignano Del Sulcis

Author Tom Hyland giving the presentation

Winemakers Marco Sarterelli of Santadi (l) and Diuno Dini of Sardus Pater (r)

Isabelle Bailet, Export Consultant with the Consorzio

Farfalle (bow tie) pasta with Rock Shrimp (below)  is paired with Mesa, Buio Buio 2010 (above)

Below: Some of the outstanding wines of the Carignano Del Sulcis

Prosecco: The Leading Sparkling Beverage in the U.S. Debuts New Vintage for the Holidays

 Vineyard Photos: by Dwight Casimere
 Above: The Glera grape from which Prosecco sparkling wine is made

TREVISO, Italy--Holidays are perfect for Prosecco, the Italian sparkling wine that is taking the U.S. by storm. Made from the Glera grape, which dates back to Roman times, Prosecco is considered by many to be the budget-priced alternative to French Champagne. There are some refined Proseccos that carry vintage years and a heftier price tag, but those are the purvey of connoisseurs. Most of us will be experiencing the myriad varieties from dry to sweet and semi-sweet that are popping up like wildflowers in wine shops and on restaurant wine lists throughout New York and Chicago, thanks to the debut arrival of the new vintages by the United Wines of Veneto and the Consorzio Tutela Prosecco DOC. which sent its consortium presidents on a promotional tour of these two major cities where Prosecco is now king.  The ensuing posts are focused on the idea of wine and food pairings with Prosecco DOC, with input from the culinary teams of Eataly and Levy restaurants in New York and Chicago, where Prosecco DOC and the Wines of Veneto will be featured over the next few weeks.

 Glera grapes are planted on more than 50,000 acres in northeastern Italy

 Below are scenes of vineyards planted in the hills along the famed "Prosecco Road" between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene near Treviso, north of Venice

Prosecco: The Leading Sparkling Beverage in the US

Story and photo gallery by Dwight Casimere

NEW YORK--Eataly, the Italian food emporium, was the point of entry for the newest edition of Prosecco DOC, the most famous Italian sparkling wine in the world and the leading sparkling beverage in the United States. The introduction, presided over by Stefano Zanette, President of the Consorzio Tutela Prosecco DOC, was a Food and Wine Pairing Dinner with Prosecco DOC and cuisine prepared by the chefs at Eataly's Pizza and Pasta restaurant.

Proseeco is Italy's answer to French Champagne. There are, however, some distinct differences. While      top quality champagne is fermented and riddled in the bottle, and often identified by vintage year, Prosecco is a non-vintage sparkling wine that is made by use of the Charmat, or tank method. (Named for the Frenchman, Eugene Charmat, it was actually an Italian, Federico Martinotti, who first patented and perfected the idea of fermenting the sparkling wine in bulk in large stainless steel tanks, referred to as the 'Martinotti' or 'Italian' method).

The name of the wine derives from the Italian village of Prosecco near Trieste where the Glera grape, from which it is made, may have originated. Prosecco is produced in the hills north of Treviso, in the regions of Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia, traditionally around Cornegliano and Valdobbiadene. The fact that Prosecco is lighter in texture, slightly sweeter and less expensive than Champagne has contributed to its runaway popularity. Besides being a budget-wise alternative to Champagne, Prosecco is also terrific as an ingredient for mixed drinks, most notably the Bellini cocktail, made famous by the  writer Ernest Hemingway at Harry's Bar in Venice, and the latest craze, the Aperol, which is made with a sweet orange liqueur of the same name.

"Prosecco is not just the name of a wine, it is a place, a land," opined Stefano Zanette, President of the Consorzio Tutela Prosecco DOC, who hosted the Eatly New York wine and food pairing. "We have over 20,000 hectares (about 50,000 acres) under vineyards."

Prosecco is produced in the nine provinces of Northeastern Italy, one of the most beautiful areas in the Italian peninsula. Its made from the Glera grape, an ancient, indigenous variety that dates back to the Romans. The intense popularity of Prosecco can be attributed to a number of factors, the most obvious being that it is less expensive to produce and to buy than French champagne. But there are other factors, too.

"Women have been in large part responsible for the rise of Prosecco," Zanette declared through an interpreter. "The wine is less acidic and lower in alcohol than champagne, coming in at about 11 perr cent. It's also generally a bit sweeter and lighter on the palate, which makes it more approachable for many people." Another plus, Zanette noted, is that Prosecco goes with just about anything. It's especially terrific with appetizers or a light buffet. For the Holidays, its a perfect addition to any meal. Prosecco is a sparkling beverage that everyone can enjoy.

For the Eataly food and wine pairing dinner with Prosecco DOC, the culinary staff rolled out a delicious array of Antipasto, including Insalata Di Stagione (salad of the season), consisting of fresh Arugula with Shaved Fennel in a light vinegar and olive oil dressing, followed by an assortment of Salumi, fresh cheeses and assorted antipasti.  Villa Sandi "Il Fresco" non-vintage Brut ($13) was the first Italian sparkler to be poured. With its bright notes of golden apples, pears and jasmine flowers, it made for an excellent palate stimulant in preparation for the heavy artillery to follow.

Eataly's pizzas, with their thin, light crust, made with the finest semolina flour and topped with the freshest of ingredients, were next to arrive steaming hot. The variety was dazzling; Margherita topped with Mozzarella, fresh Tomato Sauce, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and fresh Basil; Maseese, consisting of Mozzarella, Tomato Sauce, Neopolitan Spicy Salami, Fresh Basil and Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVO) amd Chili Ventura tickled the taste buds, followed by Ventura, with Mozzarella, Parma Ham, Arugula and shaved Parmigiano Reggiano. Astoria Lounge Prosecco DOC Extra Dry NV ($17) in its distinctive bottle was next. The grapes are sourced in the rolling hills of Veneto just north of Venice directly from the Astoria estate. Its a beautiful straw color with a creamy, full taste that just caresses your mouth. With its generous flavor of Golden Delicious Apples, it was in perfect harmony with the myriad flavors of the pizzas, both savory and herbaceous.

Next came the pastas, the first of which was the most delightful I've ever experienced; Ravioli Di Zucca, an absolutely enchanting, light pillow of Housemade Ravioli filled with Roasted Butternut Squash and combined with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and a unique ingredient, Almond Amaretti Cookies finished with Brown Butter sauce and topped with crispy Sage leaves. It was like having dessert and your favorite pasta dish all rolled into one! To say this was a masterpiece of flavor and texture is an understatement. The next dish, I called Basta Pasta, because it arrived in a gut-busting sized family-style plate with enough pasta to feed an army! The pasta, Spaghetti Con Pomodoro (Spaghetti with tomatoes) was a simple, straightforward combination of fresh Homemade Pasta and a tangy freshly made Tomato Sauce. No grated cheese or other adornment was needed. Cantina Colli del Soligo Prosseco DOC NV(also $17) from Treviso was next to arrive on the scene. It proved itself to be a robust, flavorful accompaniment to the pronounced flavors of the pastas.

The Cantina Colli del Soligo is a cooperative located strategically between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. Established in 1957, its a cooperative that was created to meet the needs of prosecco producers in the Soligo area. Its membership has now reached 700 partners. Soligo Prosecco is distinctive. Its made in the Frizzante style, which means it has slightly less bubble concentration than standard Prosecco, with a light, refreshing interpretation of the Glera grape. Its notes of ripe peaches, pears and acacia blossoms on the nose accompanied by a delicate underlying minerality and a crisp finish, make it the perfect pairing with flavorful foods like hearty pizzas.

Dessert consisted of Eatly's signature housemade Gelato and Sorbet and a variety of Biscotti (Italian cookies). The grand finale was Val d' Oca Prosecco DOC Millesimato Blue 2013 ($10, YES $10!!!!).
First of all, I don't think you can find a better value in Prosecco. I discovered this one by accident a few weeks ago, when I stumbled into a wine shop that, inexplicably, had no other prosecco on the shelf. In fact, when I asked the proprietor for a recommendation he said "Huh?!!" Anyway, this is a surprisingly complex prosecco for the price. Aromatic, with a distinct floral perfume and hints of crushed roses and an underlying scent of freshly mown grass, it has a bright, clear flavor with just the right balance of acid and fruit. Harmonious, with a dry finish, it goes perfectly with fish, light appetizers, sushi and anything that comes out of a bakery, i.e. cookies. I could have stayed with this one all night. Kudos to Alessandro Boga of Colangelo public relations who organized the event and acted as its suave interpreter and speaker.

Below: An assortment of Eatly's signature pizzas

 Massese Pizza with Spicy Salami, Fresh Basil. EVO and Chili Ventura
Below: Margherita Pizza with Mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano and Fresh Basil

 Villa Sandi "Il Fresco" Prosecco

 Assorted Antipasti

 Fresh Arugula Salad with Shaved Fennel
Below: Ravioli Di Zucca with Butternut Squash, Brown Butter, Almond Cookies and Sage

 Speaker and interpreter Alessandro Boga of Colangelo public relations

 Val d'Oca Blu Prosecco Millesimato Extra Dry 2013

 Pizza lovers dig in

 Basta Pasta!!

 Prosecco DOC Consortium President Stefano Zanette and speaker and interpreter Alessandro Boga confer over a glass of Cantina Coli del Soligo Prosecco (below)

 Dolce (dessert) of Housemade Gelato and Sorbet with assorted Biscotti (cookies), perfect with Prosecco

 Dwight Casimere with Prosecco DOC President Stefano Zanette
Below: The menu for Eataly's  Food and Wine Pairing Dinner with Prosecco DOC