WINE OF THE WEEK: TORRESELLA PROSECCO NV FROM VENETO, ITALY-$16

TORRESELLA PROSECCO-THE FRANGRANCE OF SPRING IN A GLASS

by Dwight Casimere


VENICE, Italy--Welcome Spring with the taste of Torresella Prosecco, a bargain at only $16 a bottle. It immediately has the aroma of fresh spring flowers, followed by ripe flavors of pears and green apples.  Looking at it in the glass, it has a fine "perlage" of tiny bubbles that float up from the bottom like a string of pearls. That lets you know right off the bat that this is a finely made sparkling wine. The impact in the mouth is one of soft creaminess, with hints of honeyed fruit and a bit of almond extract to round things out. This is a perfect sparkling wine served as an aperitif or with light cheeses, seafood, salads or a lovely frittata. in other words, order a case for your next garden party to welcome the beautiful season and a viewing of your new tulips and cherry or magnolia blossoms in the garden! 

The aroma brings a fragrance of spring flowers, pear and apple, while on the palate, a fine string of bubbles is your first indication of the quality of this Prosecco. The flavor is soft, with a creamy fruitiness that hints of almond. This wine is great as an apéritif or with dry sweets and soft cheeses. Serve well chilled.

SPANISH WINE'S GRANDES PAGOS: CAN RAFOLS DEL CAUS IS THE CANVAS FOR THE WINEMAKING ART OF CARLOS ESTEVA

CAN RAFOLS WINERY OF CATALONIA, SPAIN A LEADER IN BIODYNAMIC WINE

Story and photos by Dwight Casimere

 The stone entrance to the new Can Rafols winery, built entirely underground

The spectacular wines of Can Rafols

Can Rafols owner and winemaker Carlos Esteva

SPECTACULAR WINERY BUILT IN A HUGE CALCERIOUS ROCK USES GRAVITY, NATURE AND UNIQUE MICROCLIMATES TO MAKE DARING AND AWARD WINNING WINE

Story and photo gallery by Dwight Casimere

CATALONIA, Spain--Carlos Esteva is the owner and winemaker of one of the most  innovative wineries in this rich, fertile subzone of Garraf in the Penedes near Barcelona. Just a 45 minute drive from the heart of Barcelona lies one of the most amazing winery tour experiences which gives an intimate and personal view of the winemaking process using both old traditions and new technologies.

The winery uses both organic and biodynamic practices to the nth degree to produce its innovative wines, which are all hand-harvested, aged in both oak barrels and in the bottle for extended periods, and then aged in cavernous aging cellars that are carved out of the side of a calcereous rock mountain that is lined with art work.  It is a unique environment for winemaking and the resulting wines are equally distinctive and noteworthy.

Employing both international and local varieties, the wines display a character that bear the mark of both the winery's terroir, that unique combination of soil, climate and natural environment, but bear the unique signature of the winemaker. Esteva was perhaps the first winemaker in the area to begin training his vines using a trellis method. He was also among the first to use carefully developed clones, such as the Incrocio Manzoni, a cross-breed of Pinot Blanc and Riesling develooped by Professor Luigi Manzoni at the famed oenology institute at Conegliano in the Veneto region of Italy.Cabernet Ranc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc are developed form old vines from 15 to 70 years old as well as grapes native to Spain such as  Macabeo and Parellada.

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Dwight Casimere withe Carlos Esteva at the winery in Catalonia

Can Rafols winery Artist-In-Residence Kiko Ruiz of Abstraccio Biomorfica and (below) the murals that will dominate the walls of the underground winery and aging cellars

THE UNDERGROUND WINERY AT CAN RAFOLS

The winery is built completely underground in natural rock. It is an amazing feat of modern construction. The concept behind  the winery is a stroke of genius put into action. It combines old traditions with modern technologies, making use of natural gravity and the unique properties of the complex rock formations and soil compositions that line the walls of the fermentation rooms and aging cellars. The walls of the winery will be lined with artwork, created by Abstraccio Biomorfica Artist-In-Residence Kiko Ruiz, whose artwork graces the main house of the winery, along with ancient tiles, scuptures, friezes and artifacts.  Can rafols lifts Eco Tourism to new heights, combining the spectacular views of the topography of the winery with fine dining and tapas using locally grown organic produce and meats with expertly paired with their astronomical wines.

The futuristic entrance to Can Rafols underground winery and (below) the spectacular vista from the tasting rooms and vernada

 The spectacular modern art within the winery

 An ancient stove from the 1800s provided a logo for one of the wines

The romantic view of the vineyards from the tasting room

 The "James Bond" entrance to the underground winery and aging cellars with its mobile concrete door

 The fossilized rocks that line the walls of the underground winery

 The futuristic stone entrance to the winery and tasting rooms

 The vineyards are planted in calcarious soil embedded  with limestone

 Our hostess, Rosa Aguado, Directora General Can Rafols dels Caus

The original carved wood door to Can Rafols main house and tasting room circa 1864


THE WINES OF CAN RAFOLS

Xarel-lo white wine 2008- $18

Varel-lo Pairal- $18

                                                   
La Calma - $29-notice the fossilized sea shell in the limstone soil. The region was underwater in prehistoric times

Bull manure and bulls horns are used to fertilize and enrich the soil in the vineyards

SPANISH WINES' GRANDES PAGOS: GRAMONA, THE FAMILY-OWNED CAVA THAT COMPARES FAVORABLY TO CHAMPAGNE

GRAMONA IS ONE OF THE LAST FAMILY-OWNED CAVA ESTATES IN THE PENEDES

Story and photos by Dwight Casimere

BARCELONA, Spain--Less than an hour away from this bustling cosmopolitan coastal city lies one of Spain's oldest and most respected makers of Spanish Cava or sparkling wine. Gramona has been said to be equal in quality to Champagne. In fact, in 1921, Gramola, one of the mainstays of the Penedes region, was allowed to use the label designation "Cava Champagne."  A family member has been involved in the making of Gramola since 1916,  The estate is one of the few remaining family owned Cava producers in the region,

Gramona has won a number of prestigious awards and blind tasting competitions. A visit to their cellars along "Cava Row" is a crash course in quality and tradition. Besides the family members involved in the company, local residents are loyal, long-time workers. Down in the bottling room, one can see the elderly women of the village carefully hand-wrapping each bottle of Gramona Cava and packaging them for shipment. The loving care they employ with each bottle is a clear indication of their devotion to their jobs and the to family.

Xavier Gramona, the proprietor and winemaker, is proud of the stature that Gramona has maintained. and rightly so. The wine is served in the finest restaurants, hotels and wine shops throughout Europe and has been a mainstay at the great restaurants in every major U.S. city and  on the shelves of exclusive wine retailers. One of the strongest selling points, besides its superb quality, is the price. Comparable Champagnes carry a far heftier price tag. The Grand Cuvee, for example, sells for just under $20.  The Imperial Grand Reserva vintage is under $30. Of course, when one gets up to the Enoteca Gran Reserva 2003, you're talking $189.00. Still, its a steal.

A warm, mild Mediterranean climate works its magic on the grapes in spite of the poor soil, which is largely sand and clay. The fact that the vineyards are located in higher elevations, at least 700 feet above sea level, also leaves its mark on the final product.

The taste of Gramona is dry, with with hints of citrus, white flower blossoms and a faint whisper of honied fruit that gives way to a nice, clean finish. It is perfect as an aperitif or with assorted tapas, seafood, salads of soft cheeses. As a food wine, any light meats, seafood, salads, and variouss flatbreads and paella are perfect partners. This is the "go to" sparkler for a casual brunch or garden party. Dn't forget the Gramona III Lustros ($50) or the Gran Reserva for that special occasion or sharing with the special someone.

 The clay and sand vineyards of Gramona in the Penedes region

 Entrance to the winery and the nodern faciulity

 Xavier Gramon with his Imperial Grand Reserva

 Each bottle is carefully hand wrapped before shipping

 The Cavas (caves) of Gramona

 Bottles of Grand Reserva and Ennoteca  ready to be shipped

 Enoteca Gramona 2001

Gramona Gran Reserva

 A reminder of Gramona's early days

 "Cava Row" beneath these unpretentious row houses lie some of the most revered Cava of Spain

Sunset over the Penedes